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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,

I was playing my tele yesterday and noticed no tonal difference in the middle position. I contacted the builder and he said it might be a cold solder.

I have open it up and don't see anything wrong with the soldered connections. Is it possible that things are soldered to wrong things?

Here are some images, so please let me know what needs doing, if possible.

IMG_20180123_083100.jpg
IMG_20180123_083126.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hmmm, does it look like the center connection is on the wrong lug on both sides? Is lug even the right word, MJF$#?
 

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"Lug" or "terminal" is fine..."lug" is quicker to type (I like that)
This is a reference diagram for discussing the switch wiring..

crl switch.png


Following the wiring in your pics is a bit tough as it is all white.
 

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my solution to find out if I soldered correctly is to put things back together...
first plug the guitar in an amp.
turn up volume and tone controls.
place your pickup switch in the neck position ,take a small screwdriver and
tap the pickup....you should clearly hear the tapping thru the amp.
Place the switch in the middle position and tap BOTH pickups...again you should hear the pickups being tapped.
Some thing for the bridge pickup...
By the way....in the neck and bridge position, if you tap the other pickup, it should be silent.
You can also test the tone control as it effects the tone of the tapping...
Turn the tone down and the tapping should sound different.

The reason I say to put things together first is that sometimes, wires get pulled and stressed when you put the control plate back in the socket..
If its just sitting on the guitar , you will not know.

Obviously, if you do this test and one pickup is not working, at least you know where to start.
G.
 
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Discussion Starter #7
Was it OK recently?...or is this a very new guitar to you?

Quickly reflowing/redoing the solder joints on the switch is a good starting point, IMHO.
It's always been like this.

The connections look good, I just need to know if they are wrong. I'm afraid to mess around with it too much.

I'm confident I can move a couple of things around, but if I have to take it all apart, I'll need a pro.

Just got your image there. Gonna take a look at it now.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
so is the A side closest to the pickups? So the gold side in the first diagram?
 

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Can you be more specific about what you are hearing in middle position? No tonal diff between which position and middle?

Once you know that, we know which solder joint specifically to look at. Also, does the other single pup position work right?
 

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Just trace the Duncan diagram and make sure you have a perfect match. Doesn't really matter which way the switch is mounted but i usually "try" to mount it the same way as shown in the diagram for ease of interpretation. Once you've verified that proceed with GTMakers suggestion.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Can you be more specific about what you are hearing in middle position? No tonal diff between which position and middle?

Once you know that, we know which solder joint specifically to look at. Also, does the other single pup position work right?
between the bridge and the middle.

I've got to run out for a few hours now, but will check in when I'm back. Thanks for all the help.
 

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This is confusing me ...admittedly, I am easily confused these days.
The middle position is working (I assume ?) but sounds the same as the neck? ...or the bridge?

Sorry, @Granny Gremlin and I were typing at the same time..he is faster.
Just means the neck pup is not engaged in the middle position.
 

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@adcandour Is neck position working fine? Figure you'd mention it if not, so assuming it is. If the issue is wiring then I kinda don't see how neck would work at all if it's not there in middle. All the switch position 'outputs' are on the same buss wire to the vol pot (A and B 0 are the pup inputs, A/B 1 2 3 are the position outputs; referring to the diagram posted by @davetcan) . Thinking the issue might be the switch itself not making the connection properly on the 'B' side in middle position (so neck input at B0 does not make contact with B2 - if you have a multimeter, you can check that real easy).
 

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I didn't see this as I was typing...and drinking coffee...and talking to my wife...LOL



Succinct...You are so skilled with writing in that fashion. I'm always jealous (seriously).
LOL, I'm just lazy.

So if the neck and bridge work independently then the likely culprit is the jumper wire (black wire on the switch in the Duncan diagram). The actual switch "looks" right, as far as we can see, A3 and B1 are open as they should be, so it's probably a solder joint but I'd like to see a shot facing straight on to the switch. Same as the view in the Duncan diagram.
 

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Or this :)

I'd listen to GG before I listened to me.

@adcandour Is neck position working fine? Figure you'd mention it if not, so assuming it is. If the issue is wiring then I kinda don't see how neck would work at all if it's not there in middle. All the switch position 'outputs' are on the same buss wire to the vol pot (A and B 0 are the pup inputs, A/B 1 2 3 are the position outputs; referring to the diagram posted by @davetcan) . Thinking the issue might be the switch itself not making the connection properly on the 'B' side in middle position (so neck input at B0 does not make contact with B2 - if you have a multimeter, you can check that real easy).
 

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Thinking the issue might be the switch itself not making the connection properly on the 'B' side in middle position
Now it is getting extremely exciting!

I certainly wish I had better analytical/deductive reasoning skills.

I'd listen to GG before I listened to me.
I'd never advise listening to me.
 

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Is it possible your bridge pickup is too high, and the neck pickup too low? It might just be overpowering the neck pickup. I have seen this quite often on Les Paul type guitars. Do the tap test in the middle setting and see if you are getting output from both pups.
Cheers
 
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