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OMF******G !!!! That was the best sounding acoustic guitar I have tried in I don't know how long!! I usually don't bother with 12 fret guitars or ones with no cutaway. But this sounded sooooo good, I could play simple blues, flat-picking and cowboy chords all day long with out playing a note about the 10th fret or eve the 8th fret. The concert size body is perfect for me. I've tried some others in the past like a Martin CEO-7 etc, but this came out on top to my ears.



These cost $2700. I gonna have to mug a rich person to get that money.
 
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Discussion Starter #3
And I just found out that Taylor has released this for 2017...




aaaaarrrrrrgggghhhh.
 
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Take your blood pressure meds, put your feet up and start to look around you in search of everything/anything that you think you could sell.

Everything but this...
 

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I have not yet tried any of the 12 fret versions but I've heard some good things.
Do you know anything about the Taylor numbering system?
They changed it a little.
It's pretty much the same as always but there are a couple of changes and I don't know what one of them means.

I have the link to their numbering guide but it doesn't explain what the difference is between 1 & 2 in the middle digit.
Both mean 6-string but what the difference is, I don't know.
I thought maybe a 2 meant 12-fret but apparently not.
Perhaps it's an indication of the top wood but not specified.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The 312ce is a concert size cutaway 14 fret with electronics. The 322ce is a concert size cutaway 12 fret with electronics. The difference of 1&2 a appears to be the difference between 12 and 14 frets
 

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My local L&M has a 522E that calls my name every time I go in there - I am in a slow and gradual 12-fret hunt. But the price keeps it on their wall, not mine. Lovely guitar though.

I have not yet tried any of the 12 fret versions but I've heard some good things.
Do you know anything about the Taylor numbering system?
They changed it a little.
It's pretty much the same as always but there are a couple of changes and I don't know what one of them means.

I have the link to their numbering guide but it doesn't explain what the difference is between 1 & 2 in the middle digit.
Both mean 6-string but what the difference is, I don't know.
I thought maybe a 2 meant 12-fret but apparently not.
Perhaps it's an indication of the top wood but not specified.
From the 2016 Buyers Guide:

The second digit designates two things: first, whether the guitar is a 6-string or a 12-string, and second, whether the top features a software tonewood like spruce or cedar, or a hardwood like mahogany or koa. The middle number "1" or "2" designates a 6-string guitar with a softwood (1) or hardwood (2) top.

The middle number "5" or "6" designates a 12-string guitar with either a softwood (5) or hardwood (6) top.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Picked up a couple of Taylor magazines at L&M. Noticed they have 562ce - 12 sting, grand concert, cutaway, 12 fret, electronics. There are also 612ce 12 fret and 712e 12 fret models, so what I thought was the numbering scheme is out the window. So, 322ce is grand concert, cutaway, electronics, hardwood top, level 3 appointments which included solid wood top back and sides . The 3rd digit is body size I guess.
 

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To tell what Taylor you have. I have a 414ce. So series 4 visually, the 1 means it is a 6 string, and the 2nd 4 means it is a Grand Auditorium. "c"= cutaway and "e" means onboard electronics.

But the middle number can be a 5, denoting a 12 string, or the middle can be a 2 denoting the top and back and side are all the same material. Shape codes for third digit as follows
0 = Dreadnought
2 = Grand Concert
4 = Grand Auditorium
6 = Grand Symphony
8 = Grand Orchestra
 

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It's all a little confusing.
It used to be that you knew what the top, sides and back were made of by the series number, first digit.
Now they've changed it up.
I think it would have been easier to simply add a letter at the front or back of the model number to indicate an aberration.
 

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The first digit designates the Series - and generally the body wood. All top woods are solid,but the 100/200 Series are laminated bodies.

100 and 200 Series are the cheaper laminated series. 1 being layered sapele with a sitka top. 2 being a layered rosewood with a sitka top.
200 Deluxe Series is layered rosewood, koa or sapele with sitka
300 Series is solid sapele/sitka or blackwood/mahogany (depending on the 2nd digit)
400 Series is solid ovankal over sitka - no other top option so no 42x or 46x guitars, only 41x and 45x models.
500 Series is solid mahogany (tropical) over mahogany, lutz spruce or cedar (again, depending on second digit)
600 Series is solid maple over torrefied sitka - again no 62x or 66x because of the single top wood
700 Series is solid Indian rosewood over sitka - only '1' and '5' second digits
800 Series is also solid Indian rosewood over sitka with fancier binding and rosette
900 Series is again solid Indian rosewood over sitka, with extreme bling.

The 700, 800 and 900 Series are single top woods (sitka = softwood) so again no x2x or x6x, only x1x (6-string) and x5x (12-string)

There is also a Koa Series and a Presentation Series (Macassar Ebony body) that use a 2 digit designation, like K22ce or PS56ce. These don't need the traditional first digit to indicate a body wood type.

To tell what Taylor you have. I have a 414ce. So series 4 visually, the 1 means it is a 6 string, and the 2nd 4 means it is a Grand Auditorium. "c"= cutaway and "e" means onboard electronics.

But the middle number can be a 5, denoting a 12 string, or the middle can be a 2 denoting the top and back and side are all the same material. Shape codes for third digit as follows
0 = Dreadnought
2 = Grand Concert
4 = Grand Auditorium
6 = Grand Symphony
8 = Grand Orchestra
The middle digit '2' doesn't indicate they are the same woods, only that it is a 6-string with a hardwood top. In the case you are referring to, there is currently no 42x or 46x model, only 41x and 45x models (sitka tops in 6 and 12 string).
 

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Oops, I said I had a 414ce, I have 416ce which is a smidge bigger.

Oh and I said nothing about a 6 being the middle number, 1 is 6 string 5 is 12 string
 

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I wish I had known the difference between a 12 and 14 fret guitar. I think the 12's sound better
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I was raised on electrics, which is why I much prefer a 14 fret, and a 14 fret with a cutaway even a bit more. But I couldn't give a rat's ass about upper fret access with the glorious sound that came out of the 12 fret 322e.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
There is also 14 fret Taylor 322ce available. I wonder how much of sound is due to the solid Mahogany top and the solid Tasmanian Blackwood back and sides. I had never played a mahogany top guitar before that.

 

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buy it ........ buy it .......... buy it ......... buy it .......... buy it ........... buy it!!!!

Is that helping any?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I have gear for sale here and on kijiji, but that will raise maybe $400. I have $137 in the Loonie/Toonie jar. And $125.53 in the Tax free savings account. What is left in the RRSP account is NO TOUCH. And I'm retirement income. :(

Oh well, I'll get over it in a few days, I always do.
 
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