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I just use a rag with olive or vegetable oil to wipe the strings down every once in a while...keeps them slick, corrossion free & easy to play. plus it keeps the fretboard from drying out, and they're both non-toxic ( ie you can dig into that bag of potato chips without worrying about ingesting linseed/mineral oil etc )
 
Clarinet Bore Oil

I have been told by a couple of luthiers whom I respect that they prefer Clarinet Bore Oil as it provides moisture but doesn't leave any residue.



I used to use lemon oil but these days I just clean them and don't bother with oil at all.
 
I can't remember the name of it, made by Ernie Ball or whoever. Fret ease? Comes in a little gold plastic bottle that has a dauber in it, it contains mineral oil. Someone told me to only use mineral oil and I believed him. Sure does a nice job but my hands are black after a couple hrs, maybe it's the cheap Hartke strings, they sound good though.

:wave:
 
Thought I'd post some links from other forums on this timeless debate. Read on and learn.

What I have learned is that:
1) There are different types of 'Lemon Oil'. There are the natural types (good) whereas others are petroluem based (not so good) with additives like silicone which may not be good.
2) There's a lot of discussion on Linseed at the Les Paul Forum, where Dan Erlewine is a contributor in the tech section, and even Dan says to use it very sparingly.
3) I personally would not use linseed oil for two reasons. A) it never really dries (creates a layer that creates even more grunge by collecting skin and skin oils) and B) it's dangerous if you don't use precautions. IE: rags soaked with linseed left crumpled up will spontaneously combust. True fact.
4) Lots of folks seem to swear by Fret Doctor (bore oil).
5) I've always cleaned my boards using a damp cloth and scraping the grunge off with a flat piece of plastic like a credit card. I would apply a very thin coat of natural lemon oil and then wipe it off. Never soaked it. Never had a problem either.

Here are some links:

http://www.thegearpage.net/board/showthread.php?t=223154&highlight=fretboard&page=2

http://www.lespaulforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=136812

http://www.lespaulforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=136546
 
I have several guitars over 40 years + and have never used anything on the fret board , the closest they come to get a cleaning is some very fine wire,and thats only used if there is a build up on that is noticeable, other than that I am very old school, for me nothing extra is needed as long as you are playing them and wiping them down with a nice soft old cotton t-shirt.But hey thats just me, and what works for you, works, right, all that really matters is that you are playing your ax and hopefully sharing your music with someone or a whole bunch, so rock on baby:rockon2:.Ship
 
I've used Tres Hombres Lemon Oil for many many years--no problems.
My Iceman & Mustang (both rosewood fingerboards) haven't suffered from it.
And a little does go a long way. For that time frame I'm on my second bottle, but only because the first one leaked one time I moved. They haven't made this stuff for years, and a friend has tried a lot of other brands--but nothing comes close.
 
Anyone still have a stick of fast fret?
Man that stuff goes a long way.
Great for basses too.
That's what I was talking about in #46, made by GHS, (but I got it all wrong). Very handy storage/application. Doesn't leak, doesn't stink, and fast frets!
 
Oddly enough I was checking out Freddy's Frets website today and he recommends a product called Gorgomyte from Kentucky I think. I've never tried it. What I use on my rosewood fingerboards is the 0000 steel wool and Tung Oil. I learned that trick from the 12th Fret website! I've had no problems with my boards using Tung Oil. Ernie Ball Musicman maple necks come unfinished and rubbed with gunstock oil, which is what they tell you to use from then on.
 
I ordered a bottle of Fret Doctor last week and used it on my guitars. The stuff is as amazing as they describe it on the site. Gave my ebony a nice glassy look to it, and naturally darkened rosewood without discolouring it.
 
Fretboard oil

Hi, The tung/danish oils are the way to go,IMO.
I cut pure tung oil with 50% pure artist's grade turpentine in a small container.About 1 fl. oz. should be plenty.This thin finish will absorb into the
wood and not create a surface finish like varnish.It still feels like wood and not "plasticy".
The finish is water and alkali resistant.It is an elastic finish, that also resists
marring and checking because of the integration with the wood.It dries to a matt finish. (Can be used with food items, if used pure, without thinning.)
The Chinese have been using it for centuries for stone and wood in buildings,
as well as boatbuilding as a preservative/water repellant.:bow:
I'll put on a couple of coats rubbed out with 4/0 steelwool a few times a year,
during a full string change.
I am building a new hardwood cab for my YCV-20 and will use my 50/50 mix on that puppy to be sure!!lofu Have a great day....Jan
 
Anyone still have a stick of fast fret?
I used to use that but now I use Dr.Duck's AXWAX...no real wax in it and no silicone. Great for cleaning fingerboards and much better than the FastFret when doing an entire fingerboard when you have strings off (particularly a new acquisition which is grimey!!).
 
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