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Hello gentlemen, I just received a pickup from a fellow forum member and realized that the very fine wire wind on the outside of the pickup is broken.(see pic) Does anyone know if this can be fixed? it's just one wire..can it be soldered?
thanks for your help
Chris
 

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ya
the safest and easiest way would be to resolder it- what ive done is used a dab of crazy glue or something on the wire to hold it so the ends are as close to each other as possible, flux both ends and put as big a dab of solder to bridge the ends together- once sure that they are connected, glue or silicone over the wire, solder and all to prevent it from happening again. overkill probbly but hey.
the trickier and best way is to unwind the copper wire back one wrap, so you have enough length to reconnect it as it was originally, but it is not easy on a lot of pickups to do this withought causing way more problems-
 

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A friend fixed a pickup for me a while back. He unwrapped the wire 1 turn and feed it through the solder ring and re-soldered. One thing you have to do is gently scrap the coating off the winding where the solder will make contact with the wire; remember the winding is coated to prevent shorting out.
 

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Tricky unless youve done a few--to get the insulation off try a bic lighter held away from the flame very very breifly or the wire will burn-scraping can work too-check with a meter for continuence-but You'll defenetly need maginfier-upwrapping as stated by others can be dangerous as it can break so easy you wont beleive it and trying to get the end again is impossible..well almost. Also when its done put it back together very gently.
 

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You may have fixed it already, or gone some other route, but here's some info in case this is still on the to-do list.

First, one suggested non-destructive strategy for "lifting" a free end off the coil is simply to use the pink-eraser end of a pencil. Avoids potentially scraping insulation and causing unintended shorts.

Second, since there may be more than one tear, you nead to verify which end you have identified. To do that, you'll need to strip some of the insulation off the tip, and measure the resistance of the wire from the free end to the eyelet where the lead wire is soldered. The best-case scenario is one where one free end clearly connects directly to one eyelet, the other free end clearly connects directly to the other eyelet and the two resistances together add up to what the pickup should measure (somewhere between around 6k and 12k, depending on what sort of "Tele" pickup it is).

The insulation coating the wire can vary widely, and not all of it is susceptible to the lighter trick noted earlier. What I do is take a small piece of, say, 220-grit emery paper, fold it over and pinch the free end of the wire between thumb and index finger, rubbing lightly. I've tried using X-acto knives and scalpels, but quite frankly it is too easy to inadvertently create stress fractures in the wire, so rubbing is preferred. Once the wire is sufficiently stripped on each free end, tin it, and THEN try soldering the tinned ends together.

The trickiest part may be when you find that to create the solder joint in the first place you need to unwind a turn and end up with a sort of floppy appendage hanging off the coil. Electronically, this is not problematic, but sonically it creates a risk for microphonics. So, you will need to either pot the pickup or else find some other means of securing that loose end so it doesn't vibrate in place.

Potting can be as simple as melting a bit of candle wax over the wire, letting it seep in and cool. If it was a brand new coil, you'd need something a little more penetrating, but we'll assume the target is simply the free end. Another approach I've used with some success is teflon plumber's tape, available at all fine hardware stores for under a buck a roll. It can be wrapped very snugly around the coil, and has no adhesive to decompose and make the coil all goopy down the line. And happily, it is usually about the same widthas a coil. Convenient.
 
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