[Lincoln]

The age old question.

Is lifting the HV center tap better than interrupting the HV to obtain Standby?

I see so many opinions on Google it just confuses me. I need to hear from the people I trust.

We're talking tube rectified guitar amps, most likely with a GZ34 rec. tube. I know I don't even need standby with a GZ34, I'm just filling the space in the panel.
That "pop" when you switch the HV line bothers me a bit. I worry about the quality of modern toggle switches.

🤓

 

[Paul Running]

That "pop" when you switch the HV line bothers me a bit.

Try connecting a cap across the switch contacts, experiment with a value that provides the best suppression...the lowest value possible.

 

[Lincoln]

Try connecting a cap across the switch contacts, experiment with a value that provides the best suppression...the lowest value possible.

I'm going to take this to mean you wouldn't recommend interrupting the center tap of the HV winding . You'd rather switch/interrupt the HV/B+

50pf - 600 volt sound ok for a starting point? It's an EL84 amp so voltage isn't super high.

 

[WCGill]

I think you'd be fine without the standby switch. I have 50 and 60 year old amps with 5U4's and 5Y3's, no standby, no catastrophes to report. The maximum startup voltages of these rectifiers is harder on the caps than the tubes.

 

[Lincoln]

I think you'd be fine without the standby switch. I have 50 and 60 year old amps with 5U4's and 5Y3's, no standby, no catastrophes to report. The maximum startup voltages of these rectifiers is harder on the caps than the tubes.

That's the best plan. I'd be fine without the standby too. I will just blank it and call it a done deal.

 

[oldjoat]

or just install a dummy switch and keep quite about its function.

 

[WCGill]

Or, someone can post "What does this switch do?" Sorry.