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Monster Replier
'97 Strat Plus, '22 LP Studio
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5,265 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, so I need to build a speaker connector box so I can plug two amp heads into the Waza Tae without having to dick around with inputs and outputs and anything that involves me standing up or any actual effort. At least until I have to set the impedance selector on the unit.

In my brain this is as easy as a DPDT switch with On-Off-On to facilitate the break before make connection, then wiring an output to that for the TAE. This should allow me to hook up two separate inputs to the one output without concern right??

We don't need to get into loading for accidental no load situations, if I am too stupid to set the selector, to hell with me I deserve what I get.

I don't need to over think this.... I think.
 

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Monster Replier
'97 Strat Plus, '22 LP Studio
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5,265 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I should probably add that this will not be an "active operation" box as the two amps in question do not share an impedance and therefore will require them to be powered down and the switch change on the TAE, I just want to avoid having to mess about with the back of it. Pulling plugs all the time is just a pain in the ass and I am planning my "final" build for my studio closet and want to have the heads all on a shelf and easily switchable for my uses.
 

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Monster Replier
'97 Strat Plus, '22 LP Studio
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5,265 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
As long as the second amp is off it should be ok. Just do a double check that everything is selected correctly before you start powering stuff on.
Ya, like I was saying, it really is one of those "idiot" situations, I don't ever plan on having more than one amp on at a time so there will be no load on it and the fact that one is an 8 ohm and one a 4 ohm I need to manually switch the TAE, so there would be no benefit to having them both operational at the same time.

I really just want something that I can route all the cabling behind a false panel, hide it, then be able to switch them out for what I feel like using and not have to touch anything other than a switch or dial. Probably use a dial, as they look bad ass :)

Not to mention that 14 electrical connections I have wired to my 15A receptacle. There are only so many active circuits that poor little thing can handle LOL
 

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I wanted to do a similar thing because all my amps back up against a wall and I can't get behind them. I wound up going the lazy route and having labeled cables come out of each item (amps and cabs) and brining them towards the front for easy access. I just manually switch the cables as needed. It works but it's definitely not a clean looking solution.
 

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Monster Replier
'97 Strat Plus, '22 LP Studio
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5,265 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I dont even really have that option, my space is so limited so I really am forced to find efficient solutions. The TAE I going to be stuffed into a cubby just big ish enough for it and then my fat hand to reach behind it and turn the impedance knob and wattage selector. I dont want to have to be yanking it out to change cables.

The heads will be housed in the same fashion, then I'll place all the cabling behind a false wall and never have to touch it again.

I have this crazy notion of having a little "console" for lack of a better term mounted to the face of my built in wall unit that will contain an output selector, input selector, 1/4 jack for guitar in and that will be that. Probably add a single 1/4 out for if I ever do want to plug into my cab from the TAE instead of running off the monitors.

I have big dreams for my little space :)

My hope is to get the Champ, yet to be built 5E3, also yet to be built other head and a TAE mooshed into all of about 14" width x 4' high.
 

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Monster Replier
'97 Strat Plus, '22 LP Studio
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
You "could" conceivably have both amps on when switching. The catch is there cannot be any signal going into the amp with the output switched off.
Ideally I would make a 4PDT switch that has both signal in and signal out per device wired to a single throw side. This would eliminate the need for two switches when there would clearly never be an instance in this situation where the signal in and out would not both be hot at the same time.

Should be a rather simple component when I actually think about it all.

Do simple switches offer much in the way of signal bleed or crosstalk type situations?

It isnt like a wee 5w and 15w speaker out is going to be causing too much interference I wouldn't think.... maybe?
 

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Monster Replier
'97 Strat Plus, '22 LP Studio
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
So you can toggle the inputs at the same time as the outputs. Although an 8 pole could be used for isolating the grounds but in most cases, a 6 pole could work.
We talking 2 or 3 amps?

cause that would be 3 right
 

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1965 Fender Mustang, Ampegs, anything to test an amp.
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Hoping that I am reading you correctly. Using a DPDT switch, poles go to your tube amps and select RLs to match the output impedance of the amp...the whatever must match the impedance of the selected amp; does the Waza fulfil that parameter?

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Monster Replier
'97 Strat Plus, '22 LP Studio
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5,265 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Resistance MUST be set at the input on the TAE so, I either make some convoluted contraption for matching impedance over the different heads..... or just make it stupid easy and remind myself to change the selector and build a brain dead selector box.

I'm leaning towards just a multi pole double/triple throw switch used as an interruption/connection box because that has the least working parts and the least likelihood of me fudging it up :)

If the amps had the same impedance I would do what you drew there because then no switching for my lazy ass :)
 

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Unless by some crazy compulsion this MUST be a DIY project, I think the Delisle switchers are a good solution as @RBlakeney suggested. I've been looking at getting one for a while now.

Not that this will help you, but I used to use colour coded dot stickers on all the I/O on my amps so I could switch cables around without reading the labels. Effects send = green, effects return = yellow, speaker out = red, etc.

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1965 Fender Mustang, Ampegs, anything to test an amp.
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Resistance MUST be set at the input on the TAE so, I either make some convoluted contraption for matching impedance over the different heads..... or just make it stupid easy and remind myself to change the selector and build a brain dead selector box.

I'm leaning towards just a multi pole double/triple throw switch used as an interruption/connection box because that has the least working parts and the least likelihood of me fudging it up :)

If the amps had the same impedance I would do what you drew there because then no switching for my lazy ass :)
As shown, the output of tube amp B is the selected output to the Waza and tube amp A is loaded by the top load resistor which is selected for the output impedance of amp A, say 8Ω.
Toggle the switch and everything is flip-flopped.
 
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