Would a footswitch cable be OK as a speaker cable ? I got one lying around. If not, no big deal, I'll make a new speaker cable.
Interesting; sounds like that amp isn't sending a binary signal like most footswitches, but rather a control voltage. Kinda like the remote for my AKG BX25 reverb.My Fender/Sunn absolutely has to use a speaker cable for anything more than a couple of feet, because it uses some complicated diode network to allow 3 footswitches using only one cable pair - and I suspect extra capacitance messes with their 'logic'.
Yea, it's analog. It uses different zeners to drop the voltage supplied by the amp in a number of steps to control the 8 different combinations and permutations. A very complicated design just to save money on cable and the use of non-standard connectors, like Midi (and like Mesa and others do).Interesting; sounds like that amp isn't sending a binary signal like most footswitches, but rather a control voltage. Kinda like the remote for my AKG BX25 reverb.
Yah, it happens. That's why I raised the matter of what type of footswitch cable. There are so many different protocols and methods used for remote footswitching that simply calling something a footswitch cable doesn't really specify enough.For what it's worth, just checked one of my Mesa stock footswitch cables and that one was, in fact, speaker wire both by direct inspection and by markings on the cable. Of decent gauge too.
Unless it is a molded style cable ( dual ended plugging into the floor box vs perm attached) it is easy enough to check by either unscrewing the jack end or looking in the floor box to see if it is 2 conductor wire or single + shield.All that I remember, is that it IS a footswitch cable. Fender maybe, could be Crate ... or Vox ? Really don't remember, but it doesn't matter, I built a new one from scratch.
I'm not sure if you took my explanation wrong, or if this is unrelated to my comments.Hmmmn, I don't think I wanna go down that road, but it is rather well timed info given that I am currently designing myself a little tube dirt machine to sit on top and in front of my amp, and looking at relay switching vs sending actual signal down a footswitch cable.
Yeah, I got that it's not signal going to the footswitch but a control voltage. I just don't wanna mess around trying to come up with a voltage scheme like that because I only have 2 items to switch so standard mic cable (or stereo interconnect cable as used on older, non-fender Sunn and Musicman amps) will work (and I have enuf of that laying about) so I can afford to go the simple open/closed circuit way vs something as complicated and involved as your Sunnder, as interesting as it is. .... although, (shit, here goes my brain again) I still am missing the footswitch for my Sunn 1200s (not the fender-made bass amp, the 70s tube guitar head) which is exactly that type of switch (rca connectors, stereo interconnect/dual coax, wire).... I don't wanna have to switch that back and forth or have 2 seperate switches, so I could use something like miniature snake cable and make a switch for both heads.I'm not sure if you took my explanation wrong, or if this is unrelated to my comments.
In that Sunn amp, no audio signal goes down the footswitch cable (which would be noisy, since it's unshielded). I just meant that the control of the amp is done through analog control voltages, not hi/lo; on/off; 1/0 digital type control that separate conductors for each switch would provide.
Ain't that the way; better be safe and just get the right cable to be sure (as you already decided above).It is a dual molded end plug model, so no way to know unless I tear it apart.