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Discussion Starter #1
Getting stuff planned and sorted for the Hagstrom rebuild/restore... researched the finish expecting either polyurethane or nitro, and instead it's high quality polyester?

Anyone ever use it before? or know who makes it and how applied? I read something about it being more like a resin coating than a finish...

Still a month away before the workshop is up and running. Just like getting stuff researched in advanced.

Polyurethane would of course be the easiest way to go but, gotta try different things. Original used finish would be ideal, otherwise I may go and try that Mohawk string lacquer and vinyl sealer.
 

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Polyester is (to my understanding) a uv cured sprayed finish.
Its not something that you are going to be able to get it 1 guitar quantity.

Polyurethane is much more appropriate finish for a small shop.
You dont have to glob it on thick, you can do a thin finish with it.

I am not familial with the new water based varnishes so I cant offer any more advice than that.
I still have some oil based varathane here.

I really like target coatings em6000 water based lacquer.
It goings on well, has excellent burn in (until its cured - about 30 days).

Nathan
 

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Look up highline guitars on YouTube. He uses polyester once Ina while. Spray it in, let it sit outside for 5 minutes. Sand away
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Look up highline guitars on YouTube. He uses polyester once Ina while. Spray it in, let it sit outside for 5 minutes. Sand away
Ah looks like SOLAREZ is what he's using that's UV cured...

I watch his vids a lot... many times he's a tease. He'll have it all out and talk about it, then never show actually doing it. Not always but often. That said I learned a lot from his videos and plan on building a CNC based off his plans. Has plans for a nice pickup winder now as well. Can buy them, or just watch the video and easy to figure out.


Browsing now and thinking it's one of those things found everywhere in the USA and nowhere in Canada, except Amazon for 3x the price. :D
 

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This is the video you want. IIRC solarez has made a special resin for guitars only, I'm sure the highline guy has a vid for that too

 

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I can't believe it's not lacquer, by solarez

 

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Discussion Starter #7
Wonder if worth it.... Again, I've never tried nitro yet, and it's $9 a spray can.
 

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Solarez is available in Canada.

Solarez
 

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Thinking about the finishes noted above, if you're going to get some equipment and spray, if you're not looking for a wipe on or brush on finish - I'd just do the regular nitro lacquer, to me it's the best and one of the easiest to work with if you follow the rules.

I just finished a semi hollow maple topped guitar this past weekend using Goudey's regular 905 nc lacquer tinted amber using universal colours (yellow, orange and brown) - I already had it sealed up clear and it had sat for a week, so that last weekend I was able to get enough material on so it can just sit for 2 to 3 weeks hardening up and then it'll get a wet sand/polish and it's done.

Here's what I think are pro's for lacquer that IMO make it the best finish

*dries faster than anything that isn't catalysed and when catalysed dries just as fast - builds better than anything but polyE.
*very easy to spray, probably the easiest to control
*most forgiving material to work with - got overspray just wet sand, got a run just wait and scrape it, got a chip just drop fill - complete burn in without witness lines.
*tons of compatible materials to use as tint or toner
*contrary to popular belief - widely available in Canada from millwork, cabinet and paint suppliers - also available to the public in many places

-Beware the rattle cans are filled with a very low solids thinned out mix so it takes a lot of coats compared to mixing your own and spraying HVLP





PS - I didn't even grain fill the Mahogany as I didn't want to get it on the Maple - note the lacquer filled the grain just fine, spray with high solids material = less work, more fun...
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I've been thinking of getting a spray gun... I have a 3Hp 27Gal compressor, been trying to figure out the best way to make a spray booth of some sort. Rather in the basement with the workshop, but, not if spraying Nitro...

Got some more details of my guitar and apparently it was originally cherry red. I'm in debate between sanding it out and clear nitro... or... Gibson vintage cherry.

I'd like to make the grain pop a bit more, but, not a fan of what I've seen online, with adding acrylic paint to drywall filler and the sanding. I do have zpoxy which I am eager to try and from what I've seen online helps the grain to show up a bit more.

I guess zpoxy 3-4 layers and sand to seal it. Use the Mohawk recommended vinyl sealer. Then add some StewMac cherry tint to Nitro, spray a few layers, then finish with clear?

Would that be the way to go? if I go back to cherry? Otherwise, same thing minus the Cherry tint?

Then I guess 4-6 weeks before final wetsand and polish.

I've painted a few guitars, but always with auto paint, and 2k Spraymax clear. I'd like to go a bit more 'vintage' with this project. Up my skills. :)
 

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Garnet shellac would save a few steps. Use it thin for sealing then stronger for colour. Nitro on top of the shellac. Tint the nitro.

Or dye the guitar, shellac then nitro... Shellac will pop the grain
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I'd like to avoid staining the wood direct, in case I screw up. Few sealer coats I think would make it easier to sand off.
 

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It's pretty hard to screw up dye. Unless you are doing something fancy like a sunburst in dye...
 

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You don’t have to use sanding sealer over zpoxy
Either zpoxy or shellac will work for sanding sealer.
If you are spraying in your basement then go em6000
It’s fantastic and the only thing I would spray indoors. (Without a spray booth)
It’s very similar acting to nitro expect that once it’s cured (30 days) there’s no more burn in.

I have sprayed it successfully with a $30 “critter” sprayer from lee valley.
I have since upgraded to an on sale mastercraft.... it works great.

I have some better quality spray guns but lent them to a friend....who neglected to clean them.

In all honesty the mastercraft works great and has a 3 year warranty.
I’m pretty sure I only paid like $45 for it.

Nathan
 

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If you get an LVLP gun as opposed to HVLP you won't be producing massive amounts of cloud/overspray. No booth required. Just good ventilation for the VOC's.
 

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You can buy clear nitro in quart cans at home depot. It's called Watco brushing lacquer. It is nitrocellulose.
I thinned it with lacquer thinner and sprayed it with my $40 LVLP touch up gun, and it works. Out of the can the solids content is very high, with low smell, so it would make a great clear grain filler brushed on and level sanded.

Cut with lacquer thinner it sprays fine, and I barely know what I'm doing.
 

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It's pretty hard to screw up dye. Unless you are doing something fancy like a sunburst in dye...
you can go too dark.......too much in the mix. Been there/done that, had to sand it off........which is hard to do cause dye penetrates so well
 

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Well if you can't follow mixing instructions don't blame the dye
 

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Dye directly to the wood really needs careful testing testing on test pieces from the same lumber.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
You don’t have to use sanding sealer over zpoxy
Either zpoxy or shellac will work for sanding sealer.
The Mohawk page for the instrument lacquer mentions something about a sealer that has some flexibility to it is recommended and recommended the vinyl sealer.

I figured 2-3 layers of zpoxy and sanded down... seals the pores and from what I've seen online, brings the grain out nicely... then 2 coats of sealer then nitro.

I've never stained before and every other site I see has variations of how to get something like a vintage cherry colour. Stain the wood then seal... seal it, then stain so if mess up it can sand off easily... some say for the cherry to grain fill, seal, and tint the first few layers of nitro.

I know reranch has that cherry translucent nitro in a can but of course being Canadian we all know that's just not gonna happen. :D

I do like the idea of getting a spray gun and getting away from rattlecans though. I have a design made up for a collapsible table top spray booth that vents right out the basement window. For many finishes it should work... nitro though has me worried. Sounds much more toxic and gasses off fumes for 4-6 weeks.
 
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