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Discussion Starter #1
I have that '90s Yamaha body I'm working on as a parts guitar project, and I read that the bodies were ash on these so, rather than sanding it, I wanted to strip it down off-chance it had a nice grain. It's actually pretty nice so rather than paint it, I want it stripped to wood to use tung oil on instead.

So, saw some videos, heat gun and a scraper and paint just comes off. Nope... 4-5 hours I barely got the stuff off the front and back. Paint is off, but whatever the clear sealer is will not come off easy. With the work needed and few scuff I need to now sand out, there was no way I'd get the sides done, especially on the inside curves of the cutaways.

Grabbed some DS Super Remover, said ultra strong and removes varnish, epoxy, paint, etc... coated it, waited 25min, scraped, repeated 2x and paint gone, but that base coat/sealer is on there and didn't seem to be affected at all.

What (if anything) can remove that coating? What is that stuff made of?
 

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Pretty sure you’ve made it to the poly(plastic) coat that is used to seal the wood. You have to heat it with a heat gun and try and remove it with a scrapper. Google poly finish removal and you’ll see it’s not a fun job.
 

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Ya theres no easy way to remove that stuff, its nuts.

I usually use a palm sander and change the paper regularly.
Its makes a ton of awful, miserable dust.

I have not found a chemical stripper that will touch it.

Nathan
 

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Discussion Starter #4
It's some tough stuff... front and back will need sanded because of a few slightly dark patches from the heat gun it was that hard to get off. The chemical remover I got said epoxy/glue/varnish on it and figured if it can remove epoxy it'll work... but ya, paint gone, that poly stuff, doesn't budge.

Grain is good, not great... I was originally painting it olive green and painting stitches on it, Frankenstein style... which could be cool, or look really cheesy.

Stripped and saw nice wood and thought maybe tung oil and leave as wood, but, it's pretty dark and neck is very light maple so not a great match unless I strip the neck again and darken it.

Next option, was the relic look. Sand off what I've done so far, and go that route. In which case, not sure the best method...

1) Sand, few coats of clear, then a layer of paint, sand that out to get bare patches, then clear it all?
2) Sand, paint, sand then clear?
3) Read a few comments in threads, but in passing no great detail, where they oiled the wood first, then paint then sand?

Something like this basically... the body on the Yamaha looks just like that wood for colour, but it is 3 boards glued together so again, nice grain, not great.

 

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The problem with the poly coating is that you’ll never be able to sort of scratch it off the bare wood to get the get the relic look. You’ll have a layer of paint, then a layer of poly and then bare wood if you ever get to it. It will always look off because the bare wood and ploy coat will never match. So you’ll end up with a 3 layer relic job. The bare wood and poly will feather into the top coat nicely but the relic look is not a nice smooth feather edged look.

I just went through this with my jaguar. I got it will damaged paint, figured I’d relic it. I had the 3 layer affect. See the light wood, then the darker poly.
 

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I kept trying to get that darker poly to go away. Even if you stain the bare wood to match the poly, you can feel a bump up from the wood to poly.
So basically strip the poly or do a solid colour. I ended up sending the Johnny Marr jaguar body and neck to MJT to have stripped(body only) of the poly and refinished. Only cost about 3.2 million dollars but will be killer when it’s done.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well... I'll give it a go on Friday, see how it goes. Top and back and bare with a bit of residual that shouldn't take long to remove.

Main concern is the sides and especially inside the cutaways... that's why I hoped for paint remover. I have arthritis... not often, but of course it's kicking in the past week and the scraping made that much harder as a result.
 

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The problem with the poly coating is that you’ll never be able to sort of scratch it off the bare wood to get the get the relic look. You’ll have a layer of paint, then a layer of poly and then bare wood if you ever get to it. It will always look off because the bare wood and ploy coat will never match. So you’ll end up with a 3 layer relic job. The bare wood and poly will feather into the top coat nicely but the relic look is not a nice smooth feather edged look.

I just went through this with my jaguar. I got it will damaged paint, figured I’d relic it. I had the 3 layer affect. See the light wood, then the darker poly.
That's actually looks kinda awesome, much more natural looking wear than the green strat above.
MJT does nice work, I'm sure you wont regret it.

Well... I'll give it a go on Friday, see how it goes. Top and back and bare with a bit of residual that shouldn't take long to remove.

Main concern is the sides and especially inside the cutaways... that's why I hoped for paint remover. I have arthritis... not often, but of course it's kicking in the past week and the scraping made that much harder as a result.
Good luck.
Ive got a cheapo rigid oscillating spindle sander, that took care of the inside cutaways.

A sanding drum in a drill press or even cordless drill would get a lot of the paint off.

A card scraper also works well.
Super-Thin Milled Scrapers - Lee Valley Tools

Nathan
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Found a better palm sander, one I was using is good but suspect more for light work... grabbed it and put some 80-grit on and that guitar is smooth and paint/poly free. Shame, looks good, I wanted to tung oil it, but out-voted so getting painted.

Using Krylon Colour Master Italian Olive, because looks like what I imagine Frankenstein's monster would have been like. Plan is to paint with Posca paint pens, stitches on the guitar, to look like Frankenstein's skin.

I don't need to seal it with poly again, do I? should I?

I have the Krylon primer, paint, and glossy clear. Kept all the same brand/series for compatibility. Was going to give it a few dust coats and a full coat of primer, sand and check for flaws. Probably sand with 320-grit. Then apply 2-3 coats of Olive. Sand with 600-grit if needed, maybe 800-grit. Get it smooth to work on with the Posca, though debating if at that stage I should use the pens? or give it a few light coats of clear and use the Posca pens on that then go for the clear coats. If I make a mistake with the pens, lightly sanding the clear coat may be easier than having te repaint a layer of green again.

Hoping Mon/Tues to lay down the primer... should it be ok to use just the Krylon primer direct on wood?
 

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Found a better palm sander, one I was using is good but suspect more for light work... grabbed it and put some 80-grit on and that guitar is smooth and paint/poly free. Shame, looks good, I wanted to tung oil it, but out-voted so getting painted.

Using Krylon Colour Master Italian Olive, because looks like what I imagine Frankenstein's monster would have been like. Plan is to paint with Posca paint pens, stitches on the guitar, to look like Frankenstein's skin.

I don't need to seal it with poly again, do I? should I?

I have the Krylon primer, paint, and glossy clear. Kept all the same brand/series for compatibility. Was going to give it a few dust coats and a full coat of primer, sand and check for flaws. Probably sand with 320-grit. Then apply 2-3 coats of Olive. Sand with 600-grit if needed, maybe 800-grit. Get it smooth to work on with the Posca, though debating if at that stage I should use the pens? or give it a few light coats of clear and use the Posca pens on that then go for the clear coats. If I make a mistake with the pens, lightly sanding the clear coat may be easier than having te repaint a layer of green again.

Hoping Mon/Tues to lay down the primer... should it be ok to use just the Krylon primer direct on wood?
Yes you do not need to add a sealer.
Primer will act as a sealer.

I usually use bullseye
Google Shopping - Product not found

I don't use krylon so I can't advise on it specifically but I'm sure it'll be fine.

Are you planning on clear coating over it or just the colour coat and letting it age naturally?

Nathan
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I grabbed the Krylon because the colour was perfect. When I went back to grab some primer and clear, they had a weekend sale 50% off of the Krylon, so, figured same manufacturer should be the best compatibility. In theory. Grabbed 2 cans of clear/gloss, 2 cans of primer, and an extra green... if I end up not using a can, return it. Better to have and not need.

I think my plan will be

- Primer - As many coats/sanding as needed to get any flaws out. Not sure what to sand with grit wise.
- Paint - As much as needed until a solid colour and smooth then sand lightly with 600grit? Higher?
- Clear - Few light coats of clear and sanded smooth. Not thick, just enough to protect the paint and have an even coverage.
- Posca Pens - Paint with the pens all the details I wanted on the guitar.
- Clear - Clear the guitar with a 2-3 layer of clear, then let it sit a week, then sand and polish.

Upside is, nephew can't make it for Xmas which sucks, but gives me more time which I very much need. Project is taking way longer than expected. :D

Will be a bit cartoony... because solid green, and solid black lines and white stitches. Too out of practice with dry brushing and airbrushing else woulda been neat to have done it more realistically. Maybe, if I had another month. Frankencaster II I guess. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Well... +1 for anything other than Krylon... like spraying the guitar with watered down milk (white primer). Almost like they got the solvent/paint ratio reversed or something, Gone through the first can and still bare patches. And yes, I shook the can for the full recommended 2min.

Should have gone with a can of primer like the bullseye and painted it with a brush.

Kinda concerned now if the paint will be the same hassle. Hope not... because again, perfect shade of green already mixed.

EDIT - Going for car paint/primer/clear now. 2015 Jeep "Commando" Green, should work great as a Frankenstein type green. Now to sand all that Krylon off. On there like chalk... must've been a bad can? or old? I can't see such a popular brand producing such a bad product.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Hey, odl thread but wanted to update... sanded off the Krylon (garbage) and used Spray Max epoxy primer, had NAPA/Ideal Supply mix up some Commando Green (2015 Jeep colour) and used a full can of 2K Gloss Clear from Spray Max as well. Gave it a week to cure, then palm sander with 1000/1500/3000/5000 grit paper, and then med/fine pastes and a finish cream. Smooth as glass!

 

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That looks awesome!

I guess they’ve changed the formula of krylon & it’s a thick enamel now.
I read that on tdpri, it’s not first hand knowledge.

Nathan
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks....

I suspect the Canadian Tire here was selling old stock maybe. The Krylon I used, came out like watered down milk. I ended using a full can of the primer on the guitar and could still see the wood. Had to sand it off, which was quick because not much to sand. And again, shook can 2 full minutes, and room temperature.

I switched to the Spray Max 1K primer, and 2 coats and it was a solid smooth grey.

Problem I did have though, was that the primer kept spitting out small green bits of I think plastic. Company said they never had that before, so bought a 2nd can and same thing. Ended up wasting a bit of primer sanding it back to remove the plastic, then decided to drag a razor over the surface instead which removed a lot of the plastic bits, then just a very light sanding afterwards.

Luckily, same brand, the Spray Max 2K Clear, didn't have this problem.

Company said that maybe the plastic in the nozzle assembly was broken, because it's green plastic... annoying that I got 2 cans the same though.
 
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