I can see the similarities. It use to be clean, and nice... then it got used.
New to pedalboards - Help!!
21 - 33 of 33 Posts
Isn't the 69 centre positive though? So that won't work.
Joined
·
506 Posts
... nothing wrong with being picky about daisy chaining the power on pedals. (echoing others' words as well) Some pedals make noise when sharing a power supply line. You'd specifically have to test your pedals together to see what works in your case.
Also, some power supply companies (yours?) have ground lifted splitter power cables to eliminate noise/hum. In my case the Voodoo Labs PP3+ works like that. Am in the middle of testing this myself, testing the ground lifted splitter cables to see if i get any noise with any groupings of pedals.
Also good to keep expansion (GAS) in mind also, never know how your pedal board saga will unfold ...
Finally, 1) please run the OCD @ 18v and 2) use your tuner as a buffer at the beginning of your chain, and then have another buffer at the end of your chain right before the amp. FYI the Bonafide buffer is the same buffer in your PolyTuner. I use a few of them myself.
Also, some power supply companies (yours?) have ground lifted splitter power cables to eliminate noise/hum. In my case the Voodoo Labs PP3+ works like that. Am in the middle of testing this myself, testing the ground lifted splitter cables to see if i get any noise with any groupings of pedals.
Also good to keep expansion (GAS) in mind also, never know how your pedal board saga will unfold ...
Finally, 1) please run the OCD @ 18v and 2) use your tuner as a buffer at the beginning of your chain, and then have another buffer at the end of your chain right before the amp. FYI the Bonafide buffer is the same buffer in your PolyTuner. I use a few of them myself.
I have a CS-7 and wish I had a CS-12.
1) Pedals that use reverse polarity are NOT simply reversing the tip and shaft of a plug. Imagine a bipolar power supply with +9 and -9VDC. "Regular" pedals only use the +9 "side" of that. Reverse polarity pedals only use the negative side, but share the same ground, such that any power plug going into them would be tip-ground and shaft-negative.
2) I'll repeat the advisory that pedals including a clock of any sort should be run off their own isolated power source. Why? Clocks will put spikes on the power line. When spikes from one pedal encounter spikes from another, they can (which is not the same as will) produce what is called "heterodyning" - an outcome which can be summarized as being like ring modulation. Older digital pedals are susceptible to this. The story would typically go like this. Player has a digital pedal that runs nice and quiet. They go to a store, try out another digital pedal, that runs just as quietly, buy it, bring it home, plug it in on a power source shared with the first pedal, and encounter a wasp's nest of noise and buzzing, prompting them to return the pedal as "broken" or otherwise malfunctioning.
The commonness of such outcomes has led to manufacturers building protections against such outcomes into their pedals AND power supplies. Sixty years ago, the same things would happen in homes. The power line your home's washing machine, refrigerator, sewing machine, air conditioner, and all your dad's power tools plugged into, was shared with the radio, stereo, TV, and your guitar amp. If a motor anywhere in the house was turned on, all audio and TV reception went to shit because of spikes on the shared power line. As time went on, more appliances became designed to prevent susceptibility to power-line spikes going out or coming in, and I imagine home power also became a little more isolated.
2) I'll repeat the advisory that pedals including a clock of any sort should be run off their own isolated power source. Why? Clocks will put spikes on the power line. When spikes from one pedal encounter spikes from another, they can (which is not the same as will) produce what is called "heterodyning" - an outcome which can be summarized as being like ring modulation. Older digital pedals are susceptible to this. The story would typically go like this. Player has a digital pedal that runs nice and quiet. They go to a store, try out another digital pedal, that runs just as quietly, buy it, bring it home, plug it in on a power source shared with the first pedal, and encounter a wasp's nest of noise and buzzing, prompting them to return the pedal as "broken" or otherwise malfunctioning.
The commonness of such outcomes has led to manufacturers building protections against such outcomes into their pedals AND power supplies. Sixty years ago, the same things would happen in homes. The power line your home's washing machine, refrigerator, sewing machine, air conditioner, and all your dad's power tools plugged into, was shared with the radio, stereo, TV, and your guitar amp. If a motor anywhere in the house was turned on, all audio and TV reception went to shit because of spikes on the shared power line. As time went on, more appliances became designed to prevent susceptibility to power-line spikes going out or coming in, and I imagine home power also became a little more isolated.
1965 Fender Mustang, Ampegs, anything to test an amp.
Joined
·
4,594 Posts
The safest and least problematic method is to power each pedal with it's own power supply.
Yes and no. Those little black wallwarts can be labelled as 9VDC with widely varying degrees of regulation. Most power bricks will incorporate more regulation and power isolation than many wallwarts do. That's not a slag against wallwarts. Trouble is, you can't see inside them, and they don't come with enough information to predict how clean and hum-free they will be (wouldn't life be wonderful if there was an international standard for rating wallwarts in terms of supply ripple, printed on the little black block?).
That said, I think what Paul means is that individual pedals are ideally operated from a different output/jack of the power brick, not that they necessarily require an individual wallwart.
I'll just add that most compact, high-current power bricks (i.e., something offering 2A total or more in something the size of a smaller MXR pedal...or smaller) use a "switching" power supply, because it is small and lightweight for its current-handling capacity. And switching supplies ALSO have internal clocks. I'm curious about whether folks have experienced any buzzing when using such supplies with older digital pedals. I would imagine it is not an issue with more recent digital pedals that employ proper protection and power-filtering, but 1st and second generation digital pedals (e.g., things from before, say, 1998) might be susceptible, and require separate powering with a separate older-style analog wallwart. Maybe not, but that's why I'm asking.
Joined
·
33 Posts
Well, here she is. Just waiting on a Fulltone Fast-Boost 3 and the board is pretty much complete. I ended up going with a Truetone 1spot CS12 which was a wise decision since my OCD and FD2 are each plugged in to an 18v outlet.
Attachments
Joined
·
901 Posts
Joined
·
901 Posts
I see you found a Monk! Fun pedal, hope you're enjoying it.
It's fun as hell! It is polar opposite of the other trem I have in that while it can do subtle and nice it can get pretty choppy and great too!
Joined
·
11,619 Posts
I daisy-chain all of my non-digital pedals - the digital ones each get their own spot on my Decibel11 supply.
21 - 33 of 33 Posts
