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when luthiers open their conversation with that, you just know that its not going to be a cheap repair.
Practicing the other day and playing slide in the lower registers and my chinese, left hand, SX 335 starts to vibrate. WTF???!!!! So I stopped playing and gave the guitar a shake. Sure enough, the centre block is rattling around inside.
Now, the guitar only cost me $400 and one estimate was $1K and up. Going to check in with some other luthiers, but my FB group buddies all think that a self repair is best. If I get it - YaY!! If not it sits in the corner gathering dust, like it will if repar 3stimates continue to be over $1K.
I have sent an email to SX to see if they might be able to offer something more palatable.
But sheesh. I was really just getting into the guitar and getting to know how it responded to different playing techniques. And I was really digging it. Oh well, pick up another guitar and get on with it.
 
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They probably want to remove the top. Maybe you could put it in place and inject glue top and bottom, then carefully clamp it. Or something like that...
 

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Lee Valley Tools sells something they call "Chair Doctor". It's a thinned carpenter's-type glue, in a dispenser that has what is essentially a hypodermic needle tip. The idea is to be able to get glue deeply into tight spaces to stop squeaking. I highly doubt that it wuld allow you to apply glue to the relevant places inside the guitar body, but the principle seems reasonable enough. You would have to be able to find some sort of tubing, whether plastic or metal that would permit reaching the places where the glue need to go.

But yeah, when someone says "Never seen THAT before", you know it's going to be expensive. I suppose that budget instruments are budget, in part, because less attention is placed on assembly and set-up. In this case, it would seem that the glue joint between the block and body needed a little more attention.
 

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That's some scorchin' hot blues to get that glue to release !! Yeow !!

Sorry for you situation. I've taken the binding and back off a beater acoustic with heat and steam via a cheap steam iron.
I used a cloth between the iron and the wood. You can scorch the wood but at this point some refin sounds likely. My only advise would be to go slow and careful. I do not know how to get heat on the binding in the cutaways tho, that may be where pro's would route off the binding. I've not tried a head gun for this type of case.
I'd suggest using a razor to just etch a line on the sides of the binding to perhaps minimize chipping and tear-out of the sides and top.
Just some 2cents, in case you get to feeling brave.
 

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Mad Strappier
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Spray foam baby! Lots of it. Just kidding, I am not a luthier, I just play one on the internet.
Maybe a little wouldn't hurt?

Hope you can find a way out.
 
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