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I would use a Base Coat, Clear coat system. Couple of coats of clear as it will need to be wetsanded and buffed. When wet sanding keep a dry rag handy to immediately absorb any water that might get in screw holes or any other holes. the water left undisturbed can absorb into the wood and wick up to the surface just under the paint. This will case the paint to lift around the holes. BTW I'm having this one painted tonight.

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c127/lowtones/StealthV014.jpg
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c127/lowtones/StealthV007.jpg
 

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nine said:
I'm sure this goes without saying but try to use nitro and not poly. Who knows whether it's all voodoo or not, but it's pretty much a consensus that nitro sounds better. Plus, it's easier to remove if you ever want to strip it. Poly takes a nuclear bomb to remove.
I use both and I will go with Poly any day because it's a tougher finish and doesn't chek with age. :banana: Exactly the opposit reason some people will go with nitro. Tone? I doubt it but who knows.LOL I don't think that even if you recorded a guitar in a state of the art studio then stripped the guitar recoated it with the other finish restrung it with the same strings etc. you would be able to tell for sure because there are just too many variables.
So, whatever floats your boat, is best for you. either you have a good sounding guitar or not. Keep in mind that a lot of nitro finish guitars still have poly sealers but a nitro topcoat because it is softer and easier to buff out.
 
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