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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Sold my old Sessionman Vocal head a couple years ago to fund a Sunn 1200s. No regrets but I do miss the Garnet.

Today I managed a straight trade: another Sessionman Vocal ( sans any tubes, but I got to test it works before we pulled them; one of the non original 6CA7s was buggered anyway, all cloudy inside - surprised the amp worked) for a used quad of vintage GE 6550 (came to me in that Sunn, but swapped out for NOS Tesla KT88s when I had an issue that turned out to not be the tubes; tested them after as good/strong). Not in as good shape as mine; dirty and rusty. Needs a lot of love, but I have a lot of love to give so that's fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I was just about to add that I'll post pics later when I get home. Just got to my folk's place straight from the shop.

Where you been Gunchman? Haven't seen you round for a bit.
 

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I've been here.

A Bugera V5 came up on Kijiji for $200 and I had to restrain myself. I really just play acoustic these days and the few times a year I pick up the electric, Guitar Rig 4 through the studio monitors sounds fine.

I just wanted it! It looks cool and $200!

 

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Discussion Starter #5
Proof for doubting Gunters:

IMG_20180210_200518.jpg


And when I say dirty/rusty, whoa do I ever mean it:

IMG_20180210_200307.jpg

Love that super safe power cord, eh?

IMG_20180210_200347.jpg

That reverb tank is much rustier than the pics show. There's a million dead spiders in there.

IMG_20180210_200530.jpg


Even the knob set screws are ruster to shit; like how even (baring a trip to Davey Jones' locker)?

IMG_20180210_200543_edit.jpg
 

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64 Gretsch 6120, 65 Fender Tremolux and a 58 Supro 1624T
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Every time I see a thread about anything Garnet it re-kindles my GAS for a Herzog, thanks for that.... oh yeah and happy NAD :)
 

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NUA for a set of tubes?!? Deal!
Congrats bud.


Sent from my other brain.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
NUA for a set of tubes?!? Deal!
Congrats bud.
Thanks - I thought so. To be fair NOS GE 6550As are US$250-400 per quad (but mine weren't "NOS' by virtue of having been at least slightly used, though they tested as new; I would not misrepresent and would likely not get more than $300 for them, if even that). This was more about the convenience - local, not shipping straight trade and not having to wait 2 months for the sale. I have a bunch of JJ 12A_7s and a pair of E34Ls (my emerg spares from when I had my old Sessionman) so I don't need to buy any tubes to load her up.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
I'm actually building a Herzog :cool:. This is a distraction from that project (next step: run the heater wiring).

Anyway, this thing was nasty. Once I started cleaning it the smell really came out (the familiar bouquet of bush mechanic's garage). Forgot to clean one edge of the back panel and you can see the diff (the top of the headshell is not coming as clean; that's where the most shit gets spilled I guess; will see if a few repeat passes helps).

IMG_20180219_110513.jpg


The top of that reverb tank wad brown (the cam flash makes it look cleaner in the pic above due to reflectivity). With the grime on top of the rust it looked solid vs that pic.

IMG_20180219_112811.jpg


The good news is that the wiring looks clean and original.

IMG_20180218_174938.jpg


The rust on the trannies is mostly just the back. With the mildew on this thing it seems that it was stored somewhere face in so the rear got the brunt of the humidity.

IMG_20180218_175027.jpg


And yes, apparently we missed 2 of the original tubes (couldn't see them behind the power tranny) when I pulled them for the trade. Shoulda rememberred but I did have the dude check to confirm we got them all before I left. Garnet-branded Mullard 12AX7s - I'll keep those and replace. Wish it was the 12Au7 though; not sure I have one and since this one doesn't have the sockets labelled I don't remember where it goes.

IMG_20180218_172540.jpg


Weird thing is the way this was bolted in. The screw heads did not look original (heaftier, which is cool; no Fender style metal straps, but there were washers - nice touch ), but I only noticed when I started to take her apart to clean that it's mounted to withstand a hurricane: thru bolts clear to the other side of the chassis. Minor point loss for using square nuts (hard to get a grip on in the tight space) and lock washers only on 2/4 of them. That's not original is it? This one can't be much older than my old one (or my other Garnets) which had captive nuts in the chassis lip and shorter bolts (my Rebel couldn't even do thru if you wanted to; as it is, stock, one bolt is shorter than the rest, I found out the hard way, to prevent shorting something to ground; oh Gar, u a funny guy). If aftermarket dude drilled really clean holes; rather impressive. One wouldn't come out; had to cut it. Will try to replace with captive nuts and shorter bolts (I think these are actually bigger diameter than any other Garnet I have owned). If I can't find the parts I'll just replace that one bolt. It's a bear to get the chassis out the way it is because you have to remove both front and back panels (vs just rear) to get at the bolts. Speaking of the back panel, it had been removed a few too many times and the screws were a bit loose in the holes. Doweled and glued (wooden bbq skewers fit perfect, cut a bit short so they are below surface to easily locate the holes when I remount). The only things that make me unsure this was a mod are 1) the clean job and 2) the front panel is mounted with only 1 screw per side (bottomish on both sides). The latter makes taking the thing apart actually possible vs my old one where the front panel had 4 screws - top and bottom (granted those top screw were a bitch, but with a long driver you could get in there between the transformer and the headshell - on this one the bolts would be in the way).

IMG_20180218_171828.jpg

IMG_20180218_171858.jpg



Things I am wondering about:
- how I can reinforce the cab; looks like someone already tried pocket screws on one corner. Possibly dowelling the back panel holes will be enough but I doubt it.
- the rust be deep. got it down to dark ste el, but the chrome is a writeoff on at least one corner and one handle clamp. Wondering if I should leave it like that (clearcoat to prevent further degradation) or try a chrome rustoleum spray. I'd to the reverb tank too (I checked - can take the guts out easy enough so as to not get paint on them). That might just be horrible though.
 

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The good news is that the wiring looks clean and original.
Lucky you !!! ;)

The rust on the trannies is mostly just the back. With the mildew on this thing it seems that it was stored somewhere face in so the rear got the brunt of the humidity.

I read that leaving the chassis bake in the sun for a couple of days work wonders to bake out humidity in the transformers, humidity can kill a transformer.

Weird thing is the way this was bolted in. The screw heads did not look original (heaftier, which is cool; no Fender style metal straps, but there were washers - nice touch ), but I only noticed when I started to take her apart to clean that it's mounted to withstand a hurricane: thru bolts clear to the other side of the chassis.
The pro 200, 400 and the 600 all have thru bolts. you have to take the front off to remove the chassis...


That thing will be amazing once your done with it !!! :cool:
 

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re: transformer rust, I have this stuff they used on battleships to combat corrosion on the hulls vs salt water: it actually converts rust into a plasticy material, and seals the whole thing really well

better than rustoleum

I will find out what it's called; still have a bottle somewhere. had to use it on an old plexi transformer years ago

I also talked to Chris Merren ( of Merren Audio ) and he said outer surface rust on transformers isn't as big a deal as it looks. But still a good idea to seal it, anyway!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
re: transformer rust, I have this stuff they used on battleships to combat corrosion on the hulls vs salt water: it actually converts rust into a plasticy material, and seals the whole thing really well

better than rustoleum

I will find out what it's called; still have a bottle somewhere. had to use it on an old plexi transformer years ago

I also talked to Chris Merren ( of Merren Audio ) and he said outer surface rust on transformers isn't as big a deal as it looks. But still a good idea to seal it, anyway!
Yeah that's what I gather. I just want to seal it to prevent it from getting worse. I was gonna use black spray enamal (have laying about), but considering the goop (looks stock) on the PT, I'll wait for the details on that battleship stuff. Thanks.
 
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Discussion Starter #19
Escalated to acetone and still can't get the top of the headshell completely clean, but it's much better; it's character now vs gross.

Anyway, I estimate this amp is an early 72. The codes on the OT and both chokes is DGJ1 (Dec 71) the code on the PT is DGL0 (Oct 70). I never realised Marsland made the iron for Garnet - though it was Hammond. I'll check the pots later when I remove the faceplate to clean and look at the rust around there (think I'm just going to replace all those 1/4" jack nuts vs cleaning - all 9 of them - what a pain).
 

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Anyway, I estimate this amp is an early 72. The codes on the OT and both chokes is DGJ1 (Dec 71) the code on the PT is DGL0 (Oct 70). I never realised Marsland made the iron for Garnet - though it was Hammond.
I think that he started with Hammond and then switched completely to Marsland and back again to Hammond later on when Marsland were no longer there...

You must have one of the very first ones made since even on the Garnet site it states that production for the Session Man Reverb Vocal started in 73. A prototype maybe ?

Can you post pics as you go ? I love these restore threads ...
 
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