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...i just re-tubed my traynor ycv40wr with a complete set of jj tesla preamp and power tubes.

i'm finding that they break up a little early, probably a good thing for a lot of players, but i prefer maximum clean headroom.

should i have chosen svetlana, perhaps?

-dh
 

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My understanding (Adicted to Tubes may set me straight) is that the JJ's like to run hot. If there is a bias adjustment in your amp, heat them up!
 

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david henman said:
...i just re-tubed my traynor ycv40wr with a complete set of jj tesla preamp and power tubes.

i'm finding that they break up a little early, probably a good thing for a lot of players, but i prefer maximum clean headroom.

should i have chosen svetlana, perhaps?

-dh
I replied in you other thread as well: Did you get the amp's bias checked when you put the new power tubes in? Power tubes aren't plug and play unless you are putting the same brand at the exact same manufacturer rating. Even then you should check the bias.

You might want to go with lower gain preamp tubes. JJ ECC803s are lower gain in comparison to the ECC83S.

You did a complete retube so you changed alot of variables at once...
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Jeff Flowerday said:
I replied in you other thread as well: Did you get the amp's bias checked when you put the new power tubes in? Power tubes aren't plug and play unless you are putting the same brand at the exact same manufacturer rating. Even then you should check the bias.
You might want to go with lower gain preamp tubes. JJ ECC803s are lower gain in comparison to the ECC83S.
You did a complete retube so you changed alot of variables at once...
...i ordered the tubes from the tube store in hamilton, but forgot to ask for tubes that enhance clean headroom.

durn...

-dh
 

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david henman said:
...i ordered the tubes from the tube store in hamilton, but forgot to ask for tubes that enhance clean headroom.

durn...

-dh
David, my memory was fuzzy so I just dakked over to http://www.traynoramps.com to look at the schematic.

Your amp has a special autobias circuit. It adjusts itself and you can't change it! Mind you, it's set at what Ray the designer happened to like but he's not a bad player himself so what the heck! :tongue:

That takes care of the power tubes. I really don't think that you'll notice much difference in head room with different output tube brands anyway.

As for the preamp tubes, going for lesser gain versions of the 12AX7 family is a good idea but you really have to pick a tube with a BIG difference in gain to notice any change. I'd try a 12AY7, also known as a 6072. If you were close to me you could come over and also try some original 12AZ7s and 5751s but close to home you're better off ordering the 12AY7 from thetubestore.com

Even if it doesn't do exactly what you want as far as headroom I'll bet you 2 beer that you'll like it for some sounds anyway! 'Course, you'll have to come to my town to collect! :wave:

There's a lot of talk these days about all kinds of sonic differences between brands but I doubt if many folks could consistently hear them blindfolded after 3 beer. There are crap brands of course and one or two that sound a bit better than the rest of the crowd but maybe not worth all the extra cost.

I keep 12AX7EHs in stock from ElectroHarmonix. They work well and have a bit of a Mullard flavour to my old ears. Middlin' priced so good bang for the buck. There are some new TungSol tubes on the market. TungSol was a great name in the old days. Someone bought the name but unlike some other manufacturers they also tried to build their tubes as close as possible to the originals, instead of just inking on the name to try to BS the ignorant. I've tried their 5881s from the 6L6 family and they sound GREAT! They are the first and only 5881s I've heard since TungSol was still in business that sound real good! They don't cost all that more either.

They recently started making a 12AX7 that sounds as good or better than anything else out there and is super quiet - very resistant to microphonics and vibration. Well worth trying.

If you do want to play with brands of preamp tubes remember that 99.99999% of the tone difference is not only subtle but to do with the very 1st preamp tube in the string, the one closest to the input jack. After that you'd need a NASA lab to measure it, let alone hear it yourself. Stores that talk you into a full set may not actually be trying to take advantage of you by selling needless extra tubes. They usually are just cocky young pups that believe their own BS! They think that learning brand name buzz words and how to solder on a plug to a cord makes them techs! :eek: Don't blow the extra money to no benefit. You might get caught short when confronted by a new brand of beer to sample! :banana:

Have fun!
 
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tubes

I will agree for the most part with wild bill...
unless youre really anal dont spend for a full set of vintage tubes.

the new tung-sol 12ax7's are indeed a quiet and nice sounding preamp tube.
plenty of gain but not as much as a china made tube.
which to me is good, especially in a marshall jub that has gobs of gain to begin with.
they were a noticeable improvement in my jub halfstack.

when purchased, this amp had a sovtek 12ax7LPS in V1, and the other 2 were the electro harmonix 12ax7EH ... the amp was a bit too gainy and lacked clarity defination...
the amps clarity was vastly improved with the 3 tung-sols, but I still ended up reaching for a vintage mullard for the V1 spot.
I'll add that after only 5 hours use I blew the new tung-sol in the V3 spot

as for power tubes I would strongly suggest NOT running the new sensor
svetlana EL-34.
to me the bottom end is very spongy, mids are too pronounced, and the highs and harmonics are lack luster... headroom is dreadful.
but to some this might be the ticket... just not mine...
if you want a good russian el-34 go with a winged C, they have a better bottom end response as well.

I have been going round and round the past month reading and listening and from what I gather the JJ E34L having the higher grid voltage than the plain JJ EL-34 is supposed to react more like a sylvania 6ca7.

I am gonna try a set of JJE34L's as my original intentions were to find a set of NOS sylvania 6ca7's for the tighter bass and more headroom that theyre known for..

it really depends on what youre playing and trying to achieve,
I am used to '70s master vol marshall combos with matched 2x12 cabs...
I run GE6550s and amperex 7025s in all of them.....
they can be a bit brittle at times and hard to get the gain without blowing people away though....
I am trying to keep my jub sounding like a jub, but wanna increase the headroom some , lose some mids and tighten up the bottom end.

hopefully I have it nailed :)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Wild Bill said:
David, my memory was fuzzy so I just dakked over to http://www.traynoramps.com to look at the schematic.

Your amp has a special autobias circuit. It adjusts itself and you can't change it! Mind you, it's set at what Ray the designer happened to like but he's not a bad player himself so what the heck! :tongue:

That takes care of the power tubes. I really don't think that you'll notice much difference in head room with different output tube brands anyway.

As for the preamp tubes, going for lesser gain versions of the 12AX7 family is a good idea but you really have to pick a tube with a BIG difference in gain to notice any change. I'd try a 12AY7, also known as a 6072. If you were close to me you could come over and also try some original 12AZ7s and 5751s but close to home you're better off ordering the 12AY7 from thetubestore.com

Even if it doesn't do exactly what you want as far as headroom I'll bet you 2 beer that you'll like it for some sounds anyway! 'Course, you'll have to come to my town to collect! :wave:

There's a lot of talk these days about all kinds of sonic differences between brands but I doubt if many folks could consistently hear them blindfolded after 3 beer. There are crap brands of course and one or two that sound a bit better than the rest of the crowd but maybe not worth all the extra cost.

I keep 12AX7EHs in stock from ElectroHarmonix. They work well and have a bit of a Mullard flavour to my old ears. Middlin' priced so good bang for the buck. There are some new TungSol tubes on the market. TungSol was a great name in the old days. Someone bought the name but unlike some other manufacturers they also tried to build their tubes as close as possible to the originals, instead of just inking on the name to try to BS the ignorant. I've tried their 5881s from the 6L6 family and they sound GREAT! They are the first and only 5881s I've heard since TungSol was still in business that sound real good! They don't cost all that more either.

They recently started making a 12AX7 that sounds as good or better than anything else out there and is super quiet - very resistant to microphonics and vibration. Well worth trying.

If you do want to play with brands of preamp tubes remember that 99.99999% of the tone difference is not only subtle but to do with the very 1st preamp tube in the string, the one closest to the input jack. After that you'd need a NASA lab to measure it, let alone hear it yourself. Stores that talk you into a full set may not actually be trying to take advantage of you by selling needless extra tubes. They usually are just cocky young pups that believe their own BS! They think that learning brand name buzz words and how to solder on a plug to a cord makes them techs! :eek: Don't blow the extra money to no benefit. You might get caught short when confronted by a new brand of beer to sample! :banana:

Have fun!
...thanks for putting this in a realistic perspective, wild bill. i have been guilty for most of my career of buying into the hype, the myths and the assumptions.

-dh
 

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What type of JJ tubes did you put in?
JJ's don't seem to come with a bias rating like say Sovtek, Groove Tubes, Mesa or Koch.
Some tubes break up earlier than others and some manufacturers rate them on that. You can always bias slightly cold and see if that takes care of it.

I Run the stock JJ EL34L's in my Randall Lynch Box and run the JJ EL34 in my Koch. The EL34's tend to give a little more clean headroom and utilize an average bias setting. The EL34L's break up quicker and have a hotter optimal bias setting.

Either way I recommend you insure that you get your tubes Scope biased. Especially if you are paying good money for it. It is the most accurate way to get a propper bias. If those results are not adequate then you can tweek the bias hot or cold within it's operating range to get the perfomance you desire.
Just remember that the optimal bias setting yields the longest tube life.

I have had tubes ( N.O.S. Sovtek ) that operate perfectly and have seen over ten years of service with the envelope finally packing it in and developing a hairline crack. I've had much more expensive Mullards pack it in right away within an hour... poof!
 

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I re-tubed one of my amps with JJ's all round and found the same thing. I changed the 12ax7 to a Tung Sol and I liked what I heard. It's cheaper than new power tubes....
 
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