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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So I Installed 8mm locking nuts as bushings/spacers on my Epiphone 339's tailpiece to connect it more solidly to the body.
In a word, holy crap. The sustain & acoustic volume are now just shy of incredible.

I can definitely recommend trying this.

But...
the break angle is low / the tailpiece is now high (see pic). And I don't want to top wrap.

I see that Callaham sells 5/16" locking studs with 3 heights of spacer bushings.
Maybe I could use only those bushings vs the locking nuts.

  1. Should I even be concerned about break angle if the sustain is awesome?
  2. Would a 5/16 smooth bushing/spacer be large enough to fit over 8mm bolt?
  3. What are other options for metal spacers?
  4. Anyone think the locking aspect of the nuts vs using spacers is actually what's creating the great connection?
  5. Would Callaham's type locking studs do even more for sustain?
Insights, thoughts appreciated.







shallow break angle

 

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Well I guess I'ma have to try that on me Sonex next string change.

Weird thing is we were always told, back in the day, a steep break angle was better. Maybe they just meant the nut end (cuz that the raison d'etre of tilt-back headstocks and string trees).
 

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If it sounds and plays well and the strings aren't popping out of the saddles, I would play it and enjoy it.

I had the Faber Tone-Lock tailpiece on my LP Trad and it was great. A nice invention.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Is there such a thing as bottom wrapping? Seems to me that would increase your break angle
Great minds think alike. Tried it, sounded weak & would not stay in tune.
Maybe it's the strings lifting the tailpiece vs pressing.
 

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If it works and sounds great I vote don’t mess with it!

I don’t often follow that myself but it’s good advice lol

Nathan
 

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I know the Faber stuff is prettier, but come on ($4 vs $40US + shipping).

@Ray Cathode FTW with the working man's solution.
I am a working man and I bought the Faber.

Also, the Faber clamps the tailpiece tightly, while just putting a nut on there doesn't.

upload_2018-4-12_10-2-9.png
 

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I know, but $20 per bolt? It's a bit usurous. I don't need best; better will do.Especially if that last 10% costs 10x more.
 

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I know, but $20 per bolt? It's a bit usurous. I don't need best; better will do.Especially if that last 10% costs 10x more.
Fair enough, but if the point is coupling the tailpiece to the body, the Faber design achieves it much more effectively. The nut couples the shelf of the bolt to the body, but the tailpiece is still loose. I suppose one could grind the shelf off the tailpiece studs to achieve the same thing. Once the string tension is on the tailpiece, isn't everything sort of pulled tight, anyway?
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Well I guess I'ma have to try that on me Sonex next string change.

Weird thing is we were always told, back in the day, a steep break angle was better. Maybe they just meant the nut end (cuz that the raison d'etre of tilt-back headstocks and string trees).
Both could be true.
I'm starting to suspect that the shallow break angle may be contributing to the big difference in the resonance etc.
MAYBE the shallow angle allows more energy to continue on down to the tailpiece, which is now very solidly anchored to the body.
I'll see what happens when I replace the locking nuts with regular nuts, which are not as tall, increasing the break angle.


(both the above are shorter than the plastic-lock nuts already installed)
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Got the Philadelphia Luthier Tools bolts & the M8 nuts on today.
That places the tailpiece 2.5mm lower & increases the break angle.
Also couples & locks the tailpiece completely to the body.





 
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