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I have wanted a Herzog forever. I started researching Champ kits thinking it would be the easiest/cheapest way to get there (with a few extra components on top), but it turns out I can do a lot better buying the parts myself..... so scope drift and now I have come up with a Champ/Herzog hybrid (tube rectified like a Champ; actually dual tube/ss with a switch) with a stinger circuit added for good measure (I play bass, and the Stinger was originally designed as a bass fuzz - looking at Pro/BTO schems it sits right between V1a and V1b and the front end, minus the tone stack, is pretty much the same).
This looks good to me and I am excited to build it. However it is my first foray into building a tube curcuit from scratch and I tend to be the cautious type, so just wanted to post the schem here in case I missed something or did something stupid. Extra eyes and all that.
[outdated schem removed; updated one down below]
Changes from the aboved schem that I think I will implement:
1) Relay bypass with manual switch on the chassis. Not worried about that; it's pretty simple as I got some cool octal plug in 120VCA DPDT relays with indicator light (no no worries about loading down the filament supply; I also figure that adding the 6AN8 for the stinger is no big deal as I am eliminating the pilot light and the 5Y3 shouldn't have an issue with the extra load).
2) I will use On-off-on switches for the bright and deep controls (2 options + defeat). 1n seems high for the bright cap vs what I have seen in other amps so I will try 1n, 560p, and 220p and go with the 2 I like best. For deep I will try the 220n and take it from there (see what other caps I have laying about - any suggestions?)
3) since I've got the relay on the global bypass, I was thinking that I should put the stinger bypass on a relay too (which mean the footswitch cable can be a standard mic cable with shared ground, or in this case since AC, neutral, vs 4 conductor cable because can't share the 2nd conductor).... now if I do that, should I bypass it, as in the original Garnet schem (and as drawn in mine) by lifting the cathode ground, or (since the relay is DPDT) should I lift the connections both in front of the 4.7n after the grid stopper and after the 470p cap behind the intensity pot?
4) I'm gonna use 4007s instead of 4005s as drawn
This looks good to me and I am excited to build it. However it is my first foray into building a tube curcuit from scratch and I tend to be the cautious type, so just wanted to post the schem here in case I missed something or did something stupid. Extra eyes and all that.
[outdated schem removed; updated one down below]
Changes from the aboved schem that I think I will implement:
1) Relay bypass with manual switch on the chassis. Not worried about that; it's pretty simple as I got some cool octal plug in 120VCA DPDT relays with indicator light (no no worries about loading down the filament supply; I also figure that adding the 6AN8 for the stinger is no big deal as I am eliminating the pilot light and the 5Y3 shouldn't have an issue with the extra load).
2) I will use On-off-on switches for the bright and deep controls (2 options + defeat). 1n seems high for the bright cap vs what I have seen in other amps so I will try 1n, 560p, and 220p and go with the 2 I like best. For deep I will try the 220n and take it from there (see what other caps I have laying about - any suggestions?)
3) since I've got the relay on the global bypass, I was thinking that I should put the stinger bypass on a relay too (which mean the footswitch cable can be a standard mic cable with shared ground, or in this case since AC, neutral, vs 4 conductor cable because can't share the 2nd conductor).... now if I do that, should I bypass it, as in the original Garnet schem (and as drawn in mine) by lifting the cathode ground, or (since the relay is DPDT) should I lift the connections both in front of the 4.7n after the grid stopper and after the 470p cap behind the intensity pot?
4) I'm gonna use 4007s instead of 4005s as drawn