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Discussion Starter #1
Just wondering if anybody knows what kind of glue is best/strongest for building acoustics and if there is any available from any Canadian suppliers?? Thanks.
 

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Titebond Original, not II or III. The red label kind. Available from numerous places, Home Depot, Canadian Tire, probably Home Hardware, etc....

If you want to be traditional, hot hide glue made up from dried granuals is another alternative. Hot hide glue is actually quite easy to use once you get used to it, I have been using it to make violins.
 

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M_A_T_T said:
Titebond Original, not II or III. The red label kind. Available from numerous places, Home Depot, Canadian Tire, probably Home Hardware, etc....

If you want to be traditional, hot hide glue made up from dried granuals is another alternative. Hot hide glue is actually quite easy to use once you get used to it, I have been using it to make violins.
Hide glue is available from Lee Valley. The bonus to hide glue is that you if you need too it is fairly easy to remove a part if necessary by reheating the glue. I use it to set necks that way if there is a problem I can remove the neck if necessary.
 

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Some joints you can also just break the glue apart. It's so brittle it'll break instead of the wood in alot of cases. That's one way to remove a violin top, work a dull knife/tool into the joint and work it along, you can also add a bit of alcohol dripped on the knife to dry the glue out even more.

Lee Valley is where I bought mine. Still have alot of it, as it doesn't go bad in it's dry state, or at least not for a very long time. Titebond and similar glues I replace after a year at most.

One more thing, do NOT use Titebond 'Liquid Hide Glue', that stuff is absolute garbage!

Lownotes, do you use hide glue? What do you use as a glue pot? I was using a slow-cooker from walmart until I got this. It's awesome, heats hot tap water up to a consistant temp in a little over 10mins, and is small.
 

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One trick from my cabinetmaking bag of tricks... hide glue reacts with vinegar to soften. Heat and a little diluted vinegar will let it go easily.

In terms of guitars, IMO any modern wood glue, be it of the aliphatic or PVA family, will do a great job.

I understand the concept of not wanting a glue joint in a specific area to be TOO strong.. but with heat, any PVA or aliphatic glue will let go. But they will also stay put when you dont want any movement.

AJC
 

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Lownotes, do you use hide glue? What do you use as a glue pot? I was using a slow-cooker from walmart until I got this. It's awesome, heats hot tap water up to a consistant temp in a little over 10mins, and is small.[/QUOTE]

I don't know about Lownotes but I use hide glue. I use a very old electric frying pan with a very small cake pan to hold the glue. I just put water in the frying pan and float the cake pan in it. It keeps a pretty consistant temp. Thanks for the link on the glue pot. I think that I will order one. :banana:
 

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I have been building guitars as a business for 10 years now and the Titebond Original is what I us. I will use the new green lable water proof Titebond for making binding, it won't let go when you go to bend the binding. If you need to take a neck off or a bridge, the Titebond is good.
Dennis
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Back to this thread quick. I was just gaining random bits of knowledge when I was asking before but now I'm finally down to buying. I bought some wood today and grabbed a tube of Titebond Original.

The guy at the wood shop who really knew his stuff grabbed it, put it back and said you're taking this one, I insist. It was Titebond II and he said it was all he used and the best one of the bunch.

Should I say I'd rather swap next time I'm in or is there really any big difference??
 

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There is something, I can't remember, that Titebond II does, or doesn't do compared to Titebond Original. Does this guy build guitars? Pretty much every guitar/instrument maker I have ever talked to recommends Titebond Original when comparing the other Titebonds, which to me says something. IMO I would swap it. Also, check the date code on this type of glue when buying it. I wouldn't use it after two years. The bottles have date codes, but I forget how to read them. I think the first two number are the important ones. Mine is 6B517H, I think the 6 means 2006 and the B corresponds to February, but I could be wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
There is something, I can't remember, that Titebond II does, or doesn't do compared to Titebond Original. Does this guy build guitars? Pretty much every guitar/instrument maker I have ever talked to recommends Titebond Original when comparing the other Titebonds, which to me says something. IMO I would swap it. Also, check the date code on this type of glue when buying it. I wouldn't use it after two years. The bottles have date codes, but I forget how to read them. I think the first two number are the important ones. Mine is 6B517H, I think the 6 means 2006 and the B corresponds to February, but I could be wrong.
Thanks Matt, he does build and apparently what 2 doesn't do as well is release with heat (takes a higher temperature) but according to him and another guy in the shop it also doesn't tend to "creep" out of a joint as the Original might. He said, everybody he knows will only build with #2 and it's all he''s ever used....... I'll check my date code now. :)
 

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Thanks Matt, he does build and apparently what 2 doesn't do as well is release with heat (takes a higher temperature) but according to him and another guy in the shop it also doesn't tend to "creep" out of a joint as the Original might. He said, everybody he knows will only build with #2 and it's all he''s ever used....... I'll check my date code now. :)
Read this:

http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=27110

Comments from informed, experienced people regarding Titebond Original, II & III.
 
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