[Ripper]

I've got an old mid/late 80's B. C. Rich ST-3 that has a floyd rose style bridge and locking nut on it. It is only a single locker (strings come up from the bottom like a strat trem). It recently pulled apart (screws holding the top of the bridge separated from the bottom). I was able to get it fixed by using liquid steel and redrilling and tapping.

What I was wondering, does anyone know if a regular floyd rose would drop into the place of this? What measuresments etc do I have to take to figure this out. I love old girl and want to keep her playing, but I have to admit with the bridge failing, now I find myself a little hesitant to use the bar.

 

[Hamm Guitars]

You can get Floyd Templates here:

http://www.floydrose.com/instructions.html

Which will have all of the measurements that you will need to compare.

 

[Ripper]

Excellent! Andy to the rescue. Any preferences of a Kahler over a Floyd?
I've got an old Washburn Wonderbar setup I could use but I was saving that for a solidbody strat project I've been kicking around.

 

[Ripper]

Well I guess they aren't a true Floyd copy then. There is no route for the backend fo the floyd in the top of my guitar. Besides routing one to make a real floyd fit does anyone have any other suggestions??

 

[Hamm Guitars]

Excellent! Andy to the rescue. Any preferences of a Kahler over a Floyd?
I've got an old Washburn Wonderbar setup I could use but I was saving that for a solidbody strat project I've been kicking around.

Wasn't the Washburn Wonderbar a Torsion bar? If so has it held up after all these years?

 

[Hamm Guitars]

I don't remember the original floyds having the deck route. I had a Les Paul with an old Floyd, and I'm sure there was no deck route. I also had a Kramer Baretta back in the '80's and I don't remember a deck route on it either. But there it is right in the specs - I must be getting old.

Well I guess they aren't a true Floyd copy then. There is no route for the backend fo the floyd in the top of my guitar. Besides routing one to make a real floyd fit does anyone have any other suggestions??

 

[Ripper]

Wasn't the Washburn Wonderbar a Torsion bar? If so has it held up after all these years?

Held up and still going strong. Take a look at what they are going for on fleabay these days. It doesn't have the extreme dives of a floyd but a solid piece of kit that doesn't require any routing. That is why I don't want to put it on this Rich guitar, it's already routed out. I've been looking for more info on the bridge on these guitars but can't find alot. Some say they are a Kahler some say a Gotoh but haven't found examples of either that look right.

This is kinda a crappy picture but this is the type of bridge I have (no this isn't my guitar)
http://www.tommysguitars.com/images/ebcpink.jpg

I guess the best thing to do is just keep playing and see if my fix holds up and worry about it if it breaks

 

[Ripper]

I guess I need to check around at some of the guitar shops and pay attention to some of the old guitars.

 

[kat_]

I can't really tell from that pic, but is it similar to the bridge in http://www3.telus.net/public/chundah/guitar/bridge.jpg and http://www3.telus.net/public/chundah/guitar/bridge_sideview.jpg ?

 

[Hamm Guitars]

I remember that bridge, It was a generic bridge from the late '80's. I think Charvettes had those as well as series A and bunch of others (BC Rich NJ Series?).

I'm holding a Floyd in my hand, you would only need the deck routing if you wanted to pitch up. I would add the deck routing so you could flush mount it though, the action might be a little on the high side if it is sitting above the deck. If your neck is sitting high above the body, you might get away with it.

Is the stud spacing and the distance from the studs to the sadle break points roughly the same (withinthe adjustment of the Floyd?). I remember those bridges as having allot of plate before the saddles.

 

[Ripper]

I can't really tell from that pic, but is it similar to the bridge in http://www3.telus.net/public/chundah/guitar/bridge.jpg and http://www3.telus.net/public/chundah/guitar/bridge_sideview.jpg ?

Yeah that's the one. Exactly like mine.

I measured it all up and a floyd would require alot of changes. The posts on mine are wider spaced than the floyd and a few other measurements are out.

 

[kat_]

Yeah that's the one. Exactly like mine.

Well, the pics I posted are of a Series A guitar so there's another name to watch for if you're looking for parts. It's actually a guitar that I sold two day ago and the guy who bought it is planning to strip it for parts. Unfortunately I don't know how to get in touch of him. I had advertised the guitar on the Calgary Kijiji page, so maybe an ad there looking for a bridge would work.

 

[Ripper]

Thanks Kat I will check into that. I'd heading into Winnipeg in the next couple of days so I think I'll check the pawn shops out and see what that turns up.

 

[YJMUJRSRV]

This is one of my recurring nightmares. It seems that each "licensed" Floyd is different. Floyds are in my opinion the toughest trem to install. If done wrong they simply do not find their 0 point thus useless.

I've been lucky never with the floyd copies. Always end up plugging holes are drilling when it comes replacement time. Last one I did was a from a guy who just drilled away and had his bridge at about a 15 degree angle and no where near to scale.

The good news is the mess underneath is usually covered up by the that huge ugly floyd once its done. I always suggest going to a pro for floyd work. Theres so much mess on both ends that best left to someone who's done 100.

I dont like to plug guitar fetish (quality control blows) but they have a cheap floyd copy that actually functions OK. Being an import it may actually match your spacing. There must be at least one guy here who is a Floyd buff? Speak up so I can send my Floyd guys to you. I cringe at them.