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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My Super 60 amplifier is in need of an input Jack replacement. Apparently a common problem with this Fender product. At one time, Torres Engineering made a jack replacement kit for it. Torres have long since gone out of business. The jack kit was basically just a couple of switchcraft mono jacks, wire and a set of instructions. I can of course purchase the hardware but I'm hoping someone may have the instructions. I have a basic electronic repair skill which means I can solder but that's where my skill set ends.
Thanks for any help you might be.
 

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My Super 60 amplifier is in need of an input Jack replacement. Apparently a common problem with this Fender product. At one time, Torres Engineering made a jack replacement kit for it. Torres have long since gone out of business. The jack kit was basically just a couple of switchcraft mono jacks, wire and a set of instructions. I can of course purchase the hardware but I'm hoping someone may have the instructions. I have a basic electronic repair skill which means I can solder but that's where my skill set ends.
Thanks for any help you might be.
To clarify, the Torres kit used Switchcraft #12A switching jacks, not the plain #11 mono jacks. The kit also included wire and instructions.

The process is just running leads from the replacement jacks to the circuit board where the old jacks connected. If you have an understanding of how both the original and the replacement jacks function, you should be able to figure out where the leads go. I'm not sure those specific instructions are available online. I did a quick search but didn't find any. It's certainly something a local tech could do in a flash.

Best of luck with the repair/upgrade!

This isn’t a curremt link?

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The input jacks on this model are very straight forward. Unlike some of the other 'red knob' amps that use 9 pin input jacks, here we just have standard tip, ground, & switch like the 12A mentioned above.
So you just have to run wires to the correct spots on the board. The only hitch is that the jacks need to be insulated from the chassis so you don't get ground loops (the stock jacks are plastic bushing where they meet the chassis).
 

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The only hitch is that the jacks need to be insulated from the chassis so you don't get ground loops (the stock jacks are plastic bushing where they meet the chassis).
Interesting. Weird that the original Torres replacement kits didn't include any method for insulating the jacks. The kit is literally just wire and 2 jacks. Maybe they had something in the instructions. I would be interested to know.

If they do need to be isolated, one could always use Cliff jacks in place of the SC ones.
 

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Weird that the original Torres replacement kits didn't include any method for insulating the jacks.
It's possible they get away without it. Ground loops can be hit or miss, so in this particular instance it may not be a problem. But by default I always use the stock grounding scheme for insulation, just to be sure.
 

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you can buy plastic washers to insulate
 
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you can buy plastic washers to insulate
Yes, that's what I neglected to mention, thanks. :)
When replacing a plastic jack, either use the cliff type, or use plastic or fibre insulating washers. Shoulder type at the inside of chassis, and flat one at the outside.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for all the feedback.....very helpfull.
I have taken my Super 60 apart and gained access to
the circuit board. I have removed the 2 old jacks which look like they were plastic.
As I cannot come up with plastic washers and to avoid the ground loop issue I think I will go with the Cliff jacks on my amp.
What I am not familiar with is which lugs on the cliff represent positive, ground and switch. As well I do not know the terminal assignment for the old Fender jacks and therefore the circuit board.
There are of course 4 connections on each.
Can I figure this out with an ohm meter? If so, please let me know how.
I have as well attached a picture of the circuit board and the old jack as this additional info may help with an answer.
I can solder but I'm not competent at reading a board.
Again Thanks Ray
355516
355517
s to
 

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My request is that someone tell me how to check with ohm meter
To test the shorting feature: a short should be measured from the contact to return then insert a phono plug and verify that the contact breaks.
Verify all continuity from the phono plug, tip and ring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
That makes sense.....thanks
So 2 connections will be the switch and should be easy to identify.
The other 2 are ground and positive which I can identify with the a plug.
Therefore 4 connections?
Ray
 

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As you can see on the circuit board, one of the pins of the Fender jacks is not connected to anything, so unused. They are using the Tip, Tip switch, and Sleeve.
The Cliff style has Tip, Tip switch, Sleeve, and Sleeve switch, so the fourth pin (Sleeve switch) will be unused. On the Cliff style, the lugs that wrap around to the top (L shaped) are the Tip and Sleeve.
Hopefully this pic will help.

355638
 

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That is what I do on a Fender Frontman 15G
Black wire is ground ( sleeve) , red is positive ( tip)

You see the old jack in my hand

DSC08766.jpeg
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
It is now perfectly clear what I need to do. Thanks again. I will post when the job is complete and my amp has 2 working input jacks again.
This is an excellent community but what else can be expected from a group of musicians and technicians.
Stay Safe,
Ray
 
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