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Glad to see another forum member with a new toy to enjoy! You should consider getting the Bitmo Mod kits. I think there are some new ones now. I modded mine and it sounds great. sdsre
 

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Yep, and so it begins. I've only been playing a little over a year and, until now, I've resisted the dark journey into the tube underground. I was perfectly happy with my little solid state number. But now I've stepped over the line and there's no turning back. BitMo mods, tube swapping, biasing, tone caps - I'm in big trouble.

So which mods did you do? There seems to be a couple different ones. Either way, I think I'll wait a bit and see how it sounds stock and go from there.
 

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you don't really need an attenuator, if you plug the Valve Jr into a 4x12. Also those youtube sounds were terrible. Oh, and never get the combo version, for some reason it sounds a lot worse than the head only, even if you by pass the speaker.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I did the Bitmo Trio Mods - 3 way voicing and boost/tone control. Sounds awesome. Even better when I switched to the recommended Tungsol 12AX7. Still haven't gotten around to picking up a JJ tube.

Unless you can play really loud, an attenuator is a must. I just love the tone I can get from cranking it up to 10. I use my own custom made 2x12 with a greenback and a 70/80 (only had one greenback handy...) :rockon:

http://s172.photobucket.com/albums/w37/stonge007/?action=view&current=P1000432.jpg
 

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I did the Bitmo Trio Mods - 3 way voicing and boost/tone control. Sounds awesome. Even better when I switched to the recommended Tungsol 12AX7. Still haven't gotten around to picking up a JJ tube.

Unless you can play really loud, an attenuator is a must. I just love the tone I can get from cranking it up to 10. I use my own custom made 2x12 with a greenback and a 70/80 (only had one greenback handy...) :rockon:

http://s172.photobucket.com/albums/w37/stonge007/?action=view&current=P1000432.jpg
Wow, that is one nice looking stack. Nice job on the custom cabinet. I'm strictly an at home player so an attenuator is definitely in the mix. I see that The Tube Store carries all the BitMo mods (including an attenuator add-on) so I'll keep them in mind when I decide to do the mods. I was thinking the Trio offered the most versatility so I'll likely go with that one.

Thanks for all the good info and, again, for pointing out that great deal on eBay.:food-smiley-004:
 

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I suggest get a TungSol 12AX7 and a JJ EL84 as a start. That's all I've changed in my VJ and it makes a difference.
 

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i did a lot of experimenting with mine(i got a combo, i like combos)- in the end i stayed with these changes-
R1-was 68k stock, i put 1M
R2-was 68k, i put 10K
these two changes made the biggest difference, as stock was no good
R5- i put a 250k pot here, acts as master volume
R6-1M stock, i removed the resistor and put a jumper across here
R7- i removed the resistor and left open
the R6 and R7 changes allow the amp to distort quicker, with the R5 as master volume, and the R6 and R7 changes, i get a good throaty tone at really low volume-no need for further attenuation. full open it screams
R8 and R9 i changed to 1.5K
R14- changed to 270K
C3 and C4 i changed to 2.2uf 25v- removes the mushy low end
C1 and C2 left stock values but changed to orange drop caps
thats about it- i tried a bunch of different tubes, but the stock ones stayed in
stock speaker is pretty good as is, i left it in too
amp cost me 175$, spent under $20 on caps and resistors- sounds great, makes a killer bass amp too
 

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i'm on my way

i have a couuple caps for the power supply, going to get a hammond dse125 output transformer and do a couple of the simple resistor/cap value mods previously mentioned.

i don't want a tone control or master volume, but would like to brighten it up a little bit.

also will go with new tubes, tubestore is my next stop...

g.
 

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If you don't want a tone control but you want to brighten it up go with the Spanky mod. The hammond transformer changeout does wonders as well as replacing the stock speaker. On mine I used the Bit Mo trio mod and really like the voicing option, the transformer beefed up the sound a bit and changing the speaker out for a weber put the icing on the cake. Total investment of 375.00 but... a killer little practice amp.
 

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The Epi Valve Jr. arrived today! Thing looks brand new.

Forgive my ignorance but I have a question:

I'm wondering about any potential dangers of running it through my SpiderII 30 combo.

I just tested it out - powered up the SpiderII in "test" mode (hold down the tap when powering up and it basically bypasses all the preamp stuff) and ran the 4ohm output from the head into the input on the Spider.

It does work but there's a lot of hum. I'm just wondering if I'm stressing any circuitry by doing this. I know I should just get myself a separate cabinet for the head but why when I have a perfectly good 12" speaker sitting right here?

Thanks for any insight.
 

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The Epi Valve Jr. arrived today! Thing looks brand new.

Forgive my ignorance but I have a question:

I'm wondering about any potential dangers of running it through my SpiderII 30 combo.

I just tested it out - powered up the SpiderII in "test" mode (hold down the tap when powering up and it basically bypasses all the preamp stuff) and ran the 4ohm output from the head into the input on the Spider.

It does work but there's a lot of hum. I'm just wondering if I'm stressing any circuitry by doing this. I know I should just get myself a separate cabinet for the head but why when I have a perfectly good 12" speaker sitting right here?

Thanks for any insight.
From what I gather you are doing, no you should not be doing it.

unplug the speaker and plug the jr directly into the speaker - you might have to rig up a cable or a jack.
 

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From what I gather you are doing, no you should not be doing it.

unplug the speaker and plug the jr directly into the speaker - you might have to rig up a cable or a jack.
I had a funny feeling it probably wasn't a good idea. I think I'll just rig up a jack for the speaker. The speaker leads actually have two tabs per side (one tab on each side has the slide connectors soldered and going into the amp and there's an additional tab for another speaker connection, I guess) so I won't need to disconnect anything on the combo.

So I'm guessing I just need a cable with an input on one end and slide connectors on the other?
 

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I had a funny feeling it probably wasn't a good idea. I think I'll just rig up a jack for the speaker. The speaker leads actually have two tabs per side (one tab on each side has the slide connectors soldered and going into the amp and there's an additional tab for another speaker connection, I guess) so I won't need to disconnect anything on the combo.

So I'm guessing I just need a cable with an input on one end and slide connectors on the other?
A 1/4" jack with crimp connectors would work (or you could just solder the jack to the speaker with some wire)- then all you need is a standard speaker cable. You should disconnect the leads from the combo when you are using the JR though.
 

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A 1/4" jack with crimp connectors would work (or you could just solder the jack to the speaker with some wire)- then all you need is a standard speaker cable. You should disconnect the leads from the combo when you are using the JR though.
Thanks so much for the words of wisdom.
 
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