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Discussion Starter #1
LOL

This is a rant.

This pedal is OFF.

The blinding blue light burning a hole in my retina is there to inform me that the "mod" button, which boosts the mids, is enabled.

I really don't need to see that when the pedal is OFF.

mxr_mod_od.jpg
 

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Illumination needs vary by player and playing context. If it's broad daylight, intensities that might blind in the dark are what you need to see things. It would actually be nice if pedals included a little computer-type jumper internally, so that the user could select between brighter and more restrained illumination.

On a tremolo I built for myself, I use a single flashing LED to indicate tremolo speed. But when I'm in bypass mode, the stompswitch turns the brightness down. That way, you can still see the tremolo rate indicated, whether engaged or in bypass, but the brightness level indicates whether the effect is engaged.

In principle, it is a simple matter to change one resistor value to adjust the LED brightness. Trouble is that most, if not all, of MXR's pedals these days are using surface-mount components and double-sided boards, making it difficult to identify the relevant part, and tricky to change them.
 
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You can always use some translucent tape to dull it down. Sign businesses would have tons of scraps for free.
 

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Oh, I hate those lights.

I think they started on the Fulltone OCD.
 

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I have the same pedal, love it.

I like that the blue light stays on and knowing it’s set for that beforehand when playing at gigs, etc.

I did cover it with duct tape, though - it’s crazy bright.
 

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LEDs have gotten more and more efficient over the years. Rated for max brightness in millicandles, the "garden variety" LED that Boss would have used up until the early 1980s would have probably been rated at 600 mcd or even less, and cost them $0.20 in 1980 dollars/yuan. These days, I can buy 20,000 mcd LEDs for a nickel each.

The brightness is controlled by the resistance used to limit the current being fed to the LED from the power source. If you look at pedals from the 80's, such current-limiting resistors were typically 1k to 3.9k, implying that a lot of current had to be fed to them to get the wimpy little red blip we saw when the pedal was on. These days, if I install a status LED, I'm usually going to have to start off with 15k if I don't want to blind airline pilots, and often increase it to 18k or higher to get a brightness I can live with.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Here it is after about 6 layers of masking tape. I guess this will do.

Those many layers of tape make the "mod" LED about even with the red status LED that tells me whether the pedal is engaged or not.


20180225_134349.jpg
 

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Here it is after about 6 layers of masking tape. I guess this will do.

Those many layers of tape make the "mod" LED about even with the red status LED that tells me whether the pedal is engaged or not.


View attachment 175913
I do find the red light annoying on this pedal. It’s so close to the on/off switch that you actually can’t see it from certain angles. And it could be brighter. :D
 
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