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Discussion Starter #1
Hi;

I just bought a Traynor YS-1. Its in great shape and it sounds wonderful. I'm curious about its age. Its got Hammond power and output transformers and a Hammond choke. I don't know what the reverb transformer is.

The corners are rounded. I've located a couple of YSR-1 schemtics, but I don't see the choke. I installed a three-prong plug and while I was in there I should have traced things out a bit, but I was eager to get it fired up.

I don't see any serial numbers. How would I go about determing its age?

thanks;

Louis

ps. Yes, I did buy it flowers.
 

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louislouis_99 said:
Jeff;

Yes I have, but the codes on the caps don't look anything like the numbers shown on the site, they don't even look like EIA codes. They're Canadian Mallorys.

Apart from the caps I see no other numbers anywhere.

thanks;

Louis
Does it look like it's been recapped?
 

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louislouis_99 said:
Jeff;

Yes I have, but the codes on the caps don't look anything like the numbers shown on the site, they don't even look like EIA codes. They're Canadian Mallorys.

Apart from the caps I see no other numbers anywhere.

thanks;

Louis
Canadian Mallory caps makes sense. After all, the amp was built in Toronto.

Codes can be confusing. You might pop over to the "Fender Amp Field Guide" site and read up on dating by parts codes. The info applies to any amp, not just Fenders.

If the cap codes don't make sense to you try taking the panel nut off of one of the volume or tone pots and look for a code. You don't have to unsolder anything, the wires will likely be long enough you can pull the pot up and see the code stamped along the "edge". As with other parts, the first 2 or 3 digits mean the manufacturer, then a hyphen and then 4 digits that indicate the date the part was made.
"-6733" would mean 1967, 33rd week. The part wouldn't have sat long on a shelf before it was wired in by Trayor. Usually it was installed within a few weeks. NOBODY buys for production and lets inventory sit for months on the shelf. It's too expensive to tie your money up like that. You have to pay for the parts within 30 days and you don't get any money back until you ship a run of amps out the door. So the date on the pot will likely get you within a month or two.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ys-1

Thanks!

Its had at least one transformer replaced because the person who did it penciled it in on the inside of the chassis. It doesn't say which. The trannies are beautiful.

This is the first Traynor I've ever dug into so I'm sort of flying blind here. Everything on the eyelet board looks original. The cans are in nice shape, but so is everything else.

I'll open it up again this weekend and check the pots. I'll also take a closer look at the caps. Someone either took really good care of it or didn't play it a whole lot. The tar/nicotine film on it wasn't real heavy.

I dig this amp.
 

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"I like my bacon crisp and fryin' in the pan..."

louislouis_99 said:
Thanks!

Its had at least one transformer replaced because the person who did it penciled it in on the inside of the chassis. It doesn't say which. The trannies are beautiful.

This is the first Traynor I've ever dug into so I'm sort of flying blind here. Everything on the eyelet board looks original. The cans are in nice shape, but so is everything else.

I'll open it up again this weekend and check the pots. I'll also take a closer look at the caps. Someone either took really good care of it or didn't play it a whole lot. The tar/nicotine film on it wasn't real heavy.

I dig this amp.
Do NOT under any circumstances clean off that nicotine film if you intend to play any blues!

If you're a Barry Manilow fan then go right ahead and make it clean and pretty...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Wild Bill said:
Do NOT under any circumstances clean off that nicotine film if you intend to play any blues!

If you're a Barry Manilow fan then go right ahead and make it clean and pretty...
Whoa, too late. I did save the rag, though, in case the next guy wants to restore it.
 

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If it has the choke in the power supply, it was probably from the '66-'68 era. There is usually a schematic glued to the metal plate that covers the bottom of the chassis...I guess it is missing on this one.

Those are nice amps..I've owned 2 or 3 over the years myself.


Scott
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Scottone said:
If it has the choke in the power supply, it was probably from the '66-'68 era. There is usually a schematic glued to the metal plate that covers the bottom of the chassis...I guess it is missing on this one.

Those are nice amps..I've owned 2 or 3 over the years myself.


Scott
Thanks for the tip! Unfortunately there is no schematic, but I did discover that the reverb tank was replaced in '71 by a fellow named Jeff Meade. He wrote it on the inside of the metal plate. I'll check the pots tonight.

I love the way it sounds. It makes a nice compliment to the Twin I have. It hums a little and there's a 60 cycle buzz coming from the vicinity of the cap cans and power transformer. I would imagine it needs new caps.

Louis
 

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louislouis_99 said:
I love the way it sounds. It makes a nice compliment to the Twin I have. It hums a little and there's a 60 cycle buzz coming from the vicinity of the cap cans and power transformer. I would imagine it needs new caps.

Louis
I've found that the power transformers in the old Traynors can be a bit buzzy from a mechanical perspective...that's probably what you are hearing. You can try tightening the mounting bolts as that sometimes helps.

If the caps are original, there would probably be a benefit in replacing them.

Good luck with it..

Scott
 

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Dating a Traynor YSR-1,... What happen? Give up on women??:wink:
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Robert1950 said:
Dating a Traynor YSR-1,... What happen? Give up on women??:wink:
She's a fine woman. She cooks, gets hot, looks pertty, has nice knobs and big cans, offers lots of inputs, is nicely dressed and never complains about holding my beer. What more could you ask for?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Scottone said:
I've found that the power transformers in the old Traynors can be a bit buzzy from a mechanical perspective...that's probably what you are hearing. You can try tightening the mounting bolts as that sometimes helps.

If the caps are original, there would probably be a benefit in replacing them.

Good luck with it..

Scott
Which brings up a dilemma: Those twist-type multi-section cans cost a bunch more than the more readily available clamp-type. Problem is I'd have to drill some holes in the chassis for the clamps. Its seems like the right upgrade, though. Like drilling a hole for the ground wire of the three-pronged plug. Yet for some reason it bothers me.

I'm I being flakey here?

Louis
 

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louislouis_99 said:
Which brings up a dilemma: Those twist-type multi-section cans cost a bunch more than the more readily available clamp-type. Problem is I'd have to drill some holes in the chassis for the clamps. Its seems like the right upgrade, though. Like drilling a hole for the ground wire of the three-pronged plug. Yet for some reason it bothers me.

I'm I being flakey here?

Louis
Definitely go for the clamp type. I used to desolder the old cans with a big soldering iron, but a lot of guys just cut of the tabs with a dremel tool.

You don't need to drill a hole for the ground wire...just attach a lug and attach it to the chassis via one of the power transformer bolts
 

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What I do with all the old amps I redo for guys (and my own), I leave the cans in the chassis, disconnect them, and put axial style cans inside the chassis. There is lots of room inside these old amps, and from the outside they still look original.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Ysr-1

Scottone said:
Definitely go for the clamp type. I used to desolder the old cans with a big soldering iron, but a lot of guys just cut of the tabs with a dremel tool.

You don't need to drill a hole for the ground wire...just attach a lug and attach it to the chassis via one of the power transformer bolts
The numbers on the pots are either:

BD6825 or BD6837

Looks suspiciously like sometime during '68.

So drilling holes to install cap can clamps isn't frowned upon? I would think Peter Traynor would have used the most intelligent technology anyway.

I'm going trace a few wires before I get started, especially two that run under the eyelet board. I found a schematic, but it must be for a later model because it doesn't show the choke. I wonder how close the rest of it is.

BTW I hacked-in my ground wire by just tying it to a tranny screw. I had planned on drilling it later, though. Maybe I'll just leave it. I didn't have a solder tag so I fashioned one by flattening a piece of #6 copper wire. I even goobered some solder on it. I think it works. At least it did for discharging the caps.

Thanks for your help. I'm sure you'll hear from me again.

Louis
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Cans on a YSR-1

Ripper said:
What I do with all the old amps I redo for guys (and my own), I leave the cans in the chassis, disconnect them, and put axial style cans inside the chassis. There is lots of room inside these old amps, and from the outside they still look original.
Its funny because that crossed my mind, but I thought, nah, that's crazy. But you're right, there's tons of room in there and that's kind of an elegant solution when you think about. Looks OEM on the outside.

I've also read about cutting the cans open, sticking in a couple of caps and gluing them back together. I find that intriguing as well.

The only thing is that I don't want to hack this thing up too much. Just a little. A screw hole here or there, maybe.
 

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you can usually attach a couple of terminal strips using existing bolts, so you don't need to drill any extra holes. There are also stick-on mounting straps which work pretty well...in fact the Allen Amp kits use these.
 
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