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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I just want to be sure (as it is my understanding) that there is no electronic/tonal difference between wiring the cap
between the volume and tone pot (upper diagram)
in comparison to
wiring it to the tone pot only (lower diagram).

In 335 guitars, I prefer NOT to have the cap wired between the pots when 'stuffing' the
harness into the guitar so that I don't have worry about it getting 'hung up' and/or the leads to the caps stressed where they meet the cap body. This would not be such an issue with axial caps, but I don't buy axial caps.

Please don't comment on any other aspects of the harness. I have no concerns with the remainder of the circuit and the various choices that can be made.

Thanks

Dave



 
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When I looked at the guts of my guitars, they have both types of cap attachment.
I don't notice any difference in how they sound.
For hollow body, option b (cap on pot) makes sense for the reason that you stated.
 

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If I am seeing things correctly, the top is "50s wiring" and the other is "modern wiring". But as we're disregarding those differences, I think the bottom scenario should be fine. As far as the cap going to ground or to the bottom lug in the modern wiring, I think it won't matter. They do have a wire running to the outside lug (where the pickup lead connects) anyway. In modern wiring where they put the cap between the pots, they still ground the middle lug to the back of the pot, so I guess it amounts to about the same thing. Seymour Duncan diagrams look like your bottom setup, so it should be fine.

sd wiring.jpg
 

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The first picture shows the tone control wired up from the wiper of the volume pot. When the two pickups are in, in such a combination, that connects both volume-pot wipers to the output jack, and places both tone controls in parallel, where they sum. This results in more treble cut. If that is the goal, or if, let's say, one or both of the tone pots is a no-load type (i.e. at the full-treble extreme, the tone-pot wiper makes no contact, effectively removing the tone cap from the circuit), then the impact is negligible.

Personally, I would prefer to wire the tone pot from the input lug of the volume pot, such that it functions essentially independent of how many pickups are on or what the volume setting it. BUt that's my own preference, and not any hard and fast rule.

Note that, if the tone control is up full, and both volume pots are up full, there is absolutely no difference between the wiring arrangement shown, and the more common tone-before-volume arrangement. The difference arises when the volume is turned down, or when both pickups are on.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
@jdto Thanks. I'm helping my good friend @laristotle with some wiring and I want to be sure. I have always used the approach in the lower diagram and it has been fine.
 

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@jdto Thanks. I'm helping my good friend @laristotle with some wiring and I want to be sure. I have always used the approach in the lower diagram and it has been fine.
Well, you know what they say: if'n it ain't broke...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Personally, I would prefer to wire the tone pot from the input lug of the volume pot, such that it functions essentially independent of how many pickups are on or what the volume setting it. But that's my own preference, and not any hard and fast rule.
Thanks Mark.

You are basically describing the 'modern' wiring circuit here correct?

My question is actually more specific to the actual 'physical' location/ placement of the cap.
 

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The modern version will maintain the overall volume better when you roll down the volume but at the cost of losing a bit of high end. If you have a bright pickup that may not seem that bad of an idea, because with less volume and the same amount of treble the tone might be too piercing. On the other hand, the 50s version keeps the amount of treble the same but drops a bit in volume as soon as you roll down the tone pot.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The modern version will maintain the overall volume better when you roll down the volume but at the cost of losing a bit of high end. If you have a bright pickup that may not seem that bad of an idea, because with less volume and the same amount of treble the tone might be too piercing. On the other hand, the 50s version keeps the amount of treble the same but drops a bit in volume as soon as you roll down the tone pot.
Thanks...I understand those concepts.
However, my question is actually more specific to the actual 'physical' location/ placement of the cap.
 

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To the best of my knowledge as long as it is hooked up you are good. Just make it fit
 

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Thanks Mark.

You are basically describing the 'modern' wiring circuit here correct? YES

My question is actually more specific to the actual 'physical' location/ placement of the cap.
The location of the cap as bridging the distance between those two solder lugs, or the location of its connection in the circuit, as one might draw it? There is absolutely nothing wrong with it straddling the two lugs, as shown. After all, the pots won't be moving around and potentially compromising the connection.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
The location of the cap as bridging the distance between those two solder lugs, or the location of its connection in the circuit, as one might draw it? There is absolutely nothing wrong with it straddling the two lugs, as shown. After all, the pots won't be moving around and potentially compromising the connection.
This is my concern...
I am wiring a 335 style guitar and I prefer NOT to have the cap wired between the pots when 'stuffing' the harness into the guitar so that I don't have worry about it getting 'hung up' and/or the leads to the caps stressed where they meet the cap body.

Basically, I'm just wondering if where the cap is placed in the 'signal chain' to ground matters.
I didn't think this was going to get complicated. I'm also beginning to doubt my skills re: asking questions in writing...LOL
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Would 'bridging' the pots with a piece of strong wire (coat hanger) help to avoid these concerns?

The wire bridge is not needed.
However, those caps are wired the way I prefer to wire them (i.e., back of pot to the pot terminal) .
I'm not sure why someone would choose to make those additional wire "bridges"/supports. The grounding is being done by the braided shield.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
StewMac...
How is a tone pot is wired?

There are several ways to wire a traditional tone control, yet they all end up working the same way.
Diagram #8 shows the most common method.
 

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when you say bridge supports are you talking about the wire that connects all 4 pots? That's Gibson 50's method of grounding
 
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I mention them for keeping them in alignment.
No stress or twisting of the cap (if going from pot to pot) when 'stuffing' the harness into the guitar.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
I mention them for keeping them in alignment.
No stress or twisting of the cap (if going from pot to pot) when 'stuffing' the harness into the guitar.
Admittedly, they would function well to remove the stress from the caps. However, they might make 'stuffing' somewhat complicated if the pots have to be (dramatically) twisted, tipped, rotated, etc to get them through the "f" holes.

This whole issue is based largely on how large the "f" holes are in comparison to the pots. The last 335 rewiring I did had very narrow "f" hole openings and I went with full size pots.

Maybe I am just a bit paranoid...LOL. (Don't answer that!!)
 
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Maybe I am just a bit paranoid...LOL. (Don't answer that!!)
I will (answer that is).
I'm the same way when it comes to research.
I like to know that I covered all basses before diving in and then encountering a problem.
 
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