Cheap noise gate

3518 Views 84 Replies 12 Participants Last post by High/Deaf, Mar 22, 2017

MkWolfire

Discussion Starter · Mar 13, 2017

hi, i would like to know what noise gate would be the best. I like to play in distortion but my amp always make a death feedback (really hurt my ears) and then one of my friend showed me a deluxe big muff fuzz pedal and it had a noise gate on it, the feedback was gone. Unfortunately, i dont have a really big budget, only around 75-100$ So, what do you suggest?

61 - 80 of 85 Posts

cboutilier

· #61 · Mar 19, 2017

Budda said:
If you don't want screaming feedback yes - and given what the amp is, you don't want the master at max.

Get a more powerful amp. It will make your life easier.

My master is almost always at max on every amp I play

Budda

· #62 · Mar 19, 2017

cboutilier said:
My master is almost always at max on every amp I play

They probably aren't practice amps.

G

· #63 · Mar 19, 2017

5 pages to get to the fact that a low end 20 watt crappy SS Vox amp with an 8" speaker running with the master on full, the on board effects maxed plus 2 driven into each other, might squeal... Whew...

cboutilier

· #64 · Mar 19, 2017

Budda said:
They probably aren't practice amps.

Only the Valve Junior. I removed the Master from my Super Reverb

Budda

· #65 · Mar 19, 2017

The valve jr is not really a practice amp either - it barely does quiet.

MkWolfire

Discussion Starter · #66 · Mar 19, 2017

Budda said:
If you don't want screaming feedback yes - and given what the amp is, you don't want the master at max.

Get a more powerful amp. It will make your life easier.

Yeah, right, i was thinking about a mesa roadster combo 100 watts

Budda

· #67 · Mar 19, 2017

MkWolfire said:
Yeah, right, i was thinking about a mesa roadster combo 100 watts

Way too much weight IMO - head and 212 cab would be easier to deal with, and you can snag a 412 later.

cboutilier

· #68 · Mar 19, 2017

Budda said:
Way too much weight IMO - head and 212 cab would be easier to deal with, and you can snag a 412 later.

I personally prefer a heavy combo to a head/cab setup

MkWolfire

Discussion Starter · #69 · Mar 19, 2017

Budda said:
Way too much weight IMO - head and 212 cab would be easier to deal with, and you can snag a 412 later.

Im kidding, 1st, i don't have the money to buy one and second, i couldnt even put it loud enough for it to sound great

MkWolfire

Discussion Starter · #70 · Mar 20, 2017

MkWolfire said:
Im kidding, 1st, i don't have the money to buy one and second, i couldnt even put it loud enough for it to sound great

Cuz i live in an apartment

Budda

· #71 · Mar 20, 2017

Fortunately for you mesa boogie master volume amps work quite well. I had a roadster halfstack next to a neighbour's new baby's room (townhouse).

Save up, buy an amp that does what you need it to do properly. Taking a honda civic to tow a 30ft trailer is probably possible, but not a good idea.

The amp you have is fine - just not for what you necessarily want.

High/Deaf

· #72 · Mar 20, 2017

cboutilier said:
I personally prefer a heavy combo to a head/cab setup

Have you ever lifted a Roadster 212 though? OMFG!

As well as the central top handle, it has big bass-cab type handles on the sides but it is too wide for someone (at least me) to grab on to by themselves. It was literally a two-man lift everywhere but into the back of my car (a hatchback with a low tailgate height). I remember taking it upstairs once - ONCE - and it took about 10 minutes, going up one stair at a time. It was a great amp, but I sold it mostly because I just couldn't take it out very often. Love my LSS @ 50lbs so much more. An amp that gets used all the time.

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G

· #73 · Mar 20, 2017

If you want to bump up a bit on the cheap, check out the Fender Mustang Series amplifiers.

I bought the Mustang II v2 which is 30 watts. Too small, much like what you have. But the Mustang III v2 is 100 watts, and the Mustang IV v2 is 150 watts. I would think the Mustang III v2 would be the one for you OP. They sell used between $250 - $350 CAD. NOTE: Be sure to get the v2 if buying used. Here are the specs:

The Fender Mustang III is a 100W open-back combo amp with a 12" Celestion speaker that sounds great and pumps serious volume. It contains 100 amp presets derived from 12 different amp models that deliver tones from vintage Fender sparkle to outrageous modern metal distortion, and 37 different effects in four categories (stomp, modulation, delay and reverb), all easily and instantly accessed.

The Mustang III combo is great for rehearsing, jamming and small gigs, and the 1/8" headphone jack doubles as a speaker-emulated line out. Further, connect Mustang III to your computer with its USB output and use the included Fender Fuse software to open up a world of possibilities, including on-screen parameter control, deep editing, additional effects, unlimited preset storage, online preset swapping with the Fender Fuse community, and free Fender artist presets.

The Mustang III combo's included programmable two-button footswitch controls preset up/down, quick access, effects on/off and tap tempo (optional four-button footswitch also available).

Mustang III packs it all into a striking visual design with sleek and modern Fender styling that provides a look that's as desirable as the sound.

FEATURES
-100W
-12" Celestion G12T-100 speaker
-All-new DSP platform
-12 amp models: '57 Deluxe, '59 Bassman, '57 Champ, '65 Deluxe Reverb, '65 Princeton Reverb, '65 Twin Reverb, Super-Sonic, British '60s, British '70s, British '80s, American '90s, Metal 2000
-7 stomp effects: Overdrive, Fixed Wah, Touch Wah, Fuzz, Fuzz Touch Wah, Compressor, Simple Compressor
-11 modulation effects: Sine Chorus, Triangle Chorus, Sine Flanger, Triangle Flanger, Vibratone, Vintage Tremolo, Sine Tremolo, Ring Modulator, Step Filter, Phaser, Pitch Shifter
-9 delay effects: Mono Delay, Mono Echo Filter, Stereo Echo Filter, Multitap Delay, Ping Pong Delay, Ducking Delay, Reverse Delay, Tape Delay, Stereo Tape Delay
-10 Reverb Effects: Small Hall, Large Hall, Small Room, Large Room, Small Plate, Large Plate, Ambient, Arena, Fender '63 Spring Reverb, Fender '65 Spring Reverb
-Mono series FX loop
-Chromatic tuner
-1/8" aux input
-1/8" headphone jack (doubles as a speaker-emulated line out)
-USB port
-Black textured carbon tweed vinyl covering with silver grille cloth
-Includes 2-button programmable footswitch
-Includes Fender Fuse software for on-screen parameter control, deep editing, unlimited preset storage, online patch swapping, and easy firmware upgrades

SPECIFICATIONS
-Mustang III 100W 1x12 Guitar Combo Amp
17-3/4"H x 20-1/2"W x 10-3/4"D
36 lb.

Fender Guitars | Electric, Acoustic & Bass Guitars, Amps, Pro Audio

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High/Deaf

· #74 · Mar 20, 2017

I would get at least 100 watts if you ever wanted to play it out.

My rule-of-thumb for amps is:
- with tube amps, buy just the amount of power you need and no more, because more power adds quite a bit of weight (PT and OT get bigger) and I think tubes sound better when they are working hard and getting into clipping.
- with SS amps, buy as much power as you can. There is no such thing as 'too much power' because there isn't much of a weight penalty (SS amps are fairly efficient and only one transformer to increase in weight) but most because you do not EVER want to hear that SS power amp clip. That sounds horrendous.

cboutilier

· #75 · Mar 20, 2017

High/Deaf said:
Have you ever lifted a Roadster 212 though? OMFG!

As well as the central top handle, it has big bass-cab type handles on the sides but it is too wide for someone (at least me) to grab on to by themselves. It was literally a two-man lift everywhere but into the back of my car (a hatchback with a low tailgate height). I remember taking it upstairs once - ONCE - and it took about 10 minutes, going up one stair at a time. It was a great amp, but I sold it mostly because I just couldn't take it out very often. Love my LSS @ 50lbs so much more. An amp that gets used all the time.

I have not. But I had a 2x12 crate with a single top handle. It weighed in at 86.5 lbs

mhammer

· #76 · Mar 20, 2017

The widely-accepted rule of thumb is that, holding speakers constant, one needs roughly 10x the wattage to double the perceived loudness. So, if one's current amp is capable of delivering sufficient current into a speaker load to yield 20W of power, it would take 200W for that same speaker cab to be heard as twice as loud. I suppose YMMV, but what that points to for me is that variations in speaker and cab efficiency (which can easily range over 15-20db for different drivers and cabs, compared to 3db for 10x the power) likely accounts for more than mere amplifier wattage. Driven by a 20W amp, a pair of efficient 30W 12s in a ported closed-back cab can sound immense compared to a 50W rated 10" of the same impedance in a smaller open-back cab.

Naturally, what often increases the perceived loudness of an amp is cab volume, which both changes the carrying weight, and often the spectral response. So, I wouldn't categorize a bigger cab with more efficient drivers as the solution to all ills. That said, often what some players desire from their amp is simply feeling their solar plexus vibrate a little when they hit an E chord. And if a larger cab with more bottom provides that tactile feedback, mission accomplished without the need for more wattage. Bottom also allows guitars to compete a little better with drums.

A great many lower-wattage amps are predicated on being for practice or beginners, and frequently have cabs that skimp on space, to save on wood, tolex, shipping costs by weight, packaging, and warehouse-storage/display-space requirements. Going by posted specs, the VT20 has an external cab volume of 2137 inches. An inch more in all 3 dimensions would provide an external volume of 2697 cubic. in. Let's say, for argument's sake, the cab is 1/2" plywood. That would yield a hypothetical internal volume of 1888 cubic inches, or roughly 1.1cubic feet. Adding the extra inch on all 3 dimensions gives an internal volume 2408 cubic inches, or about 1.4 cubic feet, or roughly 28% more internal volume.

The "thump" of an 8" speaker will generally be limited (though the 8" JBL I installed in my Tweed Princeton has a surprising amount of bottom - one of the main reasons why I bought it to replace the stock 8" Jensen), but that simple, seemingly small, change in cab dimensions would deliver a noticeably bigger sound. And I imagine it would also likely add at least $20-25 to sticker price. When manufacturers are going after that entry-level market, they will choose to go for a smaller cab than deliver a more satisfying product at a higher sticker price. Not only because it might jeopardize sales by making consumers more reluctant and possibly select a competitor's product ($25 means more to a beginner than to a pro), but because being happy with a budget product may stand in the way of upgrading to a more costly one from the same manufacturer.

At the other end of the spectrum, higher wattage is associated with greater headroom. If the goal is to be able to play louder cleans, then higher wattage is the preferred route. This is what made Twin Reverbs the go-to backline amp for so many musicians.

Try out your amp with an external cab and see what you think of its potential.

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MkWolfire

Discussion Starter · #77 · Mar 20, 2017

mhammer said:
The widely-accepted rule of thumb is that, holding speakers constant, one needs roughly 10x the wattage to double the perceived loudness. So, if one's current amp is capable of delivering sufficient current into a speaker load to yield 20W of power, it would take 200W for that same speaker cab to be heard as twice as loud. I suppose YMMV, but what that points to for me is that variations in speaker and cab efficiency (which can easily range over 15-20db for different drivers and cabs, compared to 3db for 10x the power) likely accounts for more than mere amplifier wattage. Driven by a 20W amp, a pair of efficient 30W 12s in a ported closed-back cab can sound immense compared to a 50W rated 10" of the same impedance in a smaller open-back cab.

Naturally, what often increases the perceived loudness of an amp is cab volume, which both changes the carrying weight, and often the spectral response. So, I wouldn't categorize a bigger cab with more efficient drivers as the solution to all ills. That said, often what some players desire from their amp is simply feeling their solar plexus vibrate a little when they hit an E chord. And if a larger cab with more bottom provides that tactile feedback, mission accomplished without the need for more wattage. Bottom also allows guitars to compete a little better with drums.

A great many lower-wattage amps are predicated on being for practice or beginners, and frequently have cabs that skimp on space, to save on wood, tolex, shipping costs by weight, packaging, and warehouse-storage/display-space requirements. Going by posted specs, the VT20 has an external cab volume of 2137 inches. An inch more in all 3 dimensions would provide an external volume of 2697 cubic. in. Let's say, for argument's sake, the cab is 1/2" plywood. That would yield a hypothetical internal volume of 1888 cubic inches, or roughly 1.1cubic feet. Adding the extra inch on all 3 dimensions gives an internal volume 2408 cubic inches, or about 1.4 cubic feet, or roughly 28% more internal volume.

The "thump" of an 8" speaker will generally be limited (though the 8" JBL I installed in my Tweed Princeton has a surprising amount of bottom - one of the main reasons why I bought it to replace the stock 8" Jensen), but that simple, seemingly small, change in cab dimensions would deliver a noticeably bigger sound. And I imagine it would also likely add at least $20-25 to sticker price. When manufacturers are going after that entry-level market, they will choose to go for a smaller cab than deliver a more satisfying product at a higher sticker price. Not only because it might jeopardize sales by making consumers more reluctant and possibly select a competitor's product ($25 means more to a beginner than to a pro), but because being happy with a budget product may stand in the way of upgrading to a more costly one from the same manufacturer.

At the other end of the spectrum, higher wattage is associated with greater headroom. If the goal is to be able to play louder cleans, then higher wattage is the preferred route. This is what made Twin Reverbs the go-to backline amp for so many musicians.

Try out your amp with an external cab and see what you think of its potential.

How to plug it in an external cab? There is no output

G

· #78 · Mar 21, 2017

Your amp does not have an extension cab jack. It has a headphone jack that models a speaker, but that won't do.

mhammer

· #79 · Mar 21, 2017

Presumably there are "spade lug" connectors to the speaker for easy installation. Those can be easily connected to an extension cable to another speaker cab. Not pretty, but it works.

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G

· #80 · Mar 21, 2017

What about the ohms? Is it not hard on an amp to run (especially full blast) with mismatched ohms?

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