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Discussion Starter #1
I recently bought a Yamaha FGX800C. My old Dunlop capo works fine on my other guitars but not on the Yamaha. I think it has a flatter fingerboard. I picked up a Kaiser today but it has the same problem, not enough pressure on some of the strings. I'm going to return it and get something else, any ideas on what might work?
 

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I have an old Dunlop that’s flat and another that’s curved so they are out there. I think I paid $3 for each of them in about 1973.
That was a lotta money then. I’d be lookin to get at least $300 a piece for them these days ... lol
 

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As far as I know, fretboard radius on acoustics is either 12 or 16 inches. On electrics, it can be even more shorter. So you need a capo averaging the same radius as your fretboard. Believe it or not, no seller even bothered about that while selling a capo ! Why this is important ? If you use a 12 in. radius capo on a 16 in. radius fretboard, it will not put enough pressure on middle strings and too much on lateral strings... and middle strings will buzz. On the other side, 16 in. radius capo on 12 in. radius fretboard will put too much pressure on middle strings, bending them and getting out of tune. The capo, as well as fretting strings, should be just behind the frets with just enough pressure (too much pressure will aggravate fret use).

Classical guitars have larger flat fretboard, so another type of capo is needed.

I have at least three (maybe a fourth somewhere I do not use anymore) capos !
 

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Are you sure the Yamaha is properly set up? You may have string height issues. Even worse if you have heavy strings.

Anyway, consider getting a G7th capo. They are expensive but are really good. Especially the new ones with the new compensating bar. I have a couple and they work perfectly on 6 and 12 string.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I got the Shubb, it actually doesn't work much better. I think I'm just going to keep it and learn to live with it. I can't really afford a G7th.
 

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My Elliott elite works great on my acoustic with 16 radius and on either of my tele.s 9.5 radius. My shubb works great on my acoustic but can be finicky and have tuning issues on my tele's. I also have a Keizer that works well on the acoustic but it can be a bit more finicky to get on with out having to retune.
 

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Thalia Capos come with a set of different radius pads so you can go from 7.5 - 16
 
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I've used my Dunlop capos on all manner of fretboard radii and have never had an issue.
I echo the previously mentioned sentiment that perhaps there is an unresolved setup issue.
 

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I use a Paige on my acoustics. I take the sleeve off and take the time to bend the arm to match the radius of the board (as close as possible). When I put the sleeve back on, I put it so the gold letters are against the board, just because I like the capo to be as subtle as possible. That's also why I use black rather than silver capos. I have a capo dedicated to each guitar.
When I apply the capo, I do it close to the fret and only tighten enough to stop the strings from buzzing. I recommend my students to steer clear of Kysers or Triggers or any other spring loaded capo, since they almost always pull the strings sharp; on my guitars anyway.
 

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I've been using the G7 Heritage for the last month or so - it actually works as advertised!
Works on the Collings with the compound radius, works on the Martins/Pre-War with the 16" radius,
works on the Taylor 15"(?), works on a '64 Strat 7.25" and a custom Strat 12". All with little, to no tweaking!
 
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