From what I've read (and I collect classic texts all the way back to G A Briggs in the late 40's) perhaps the two most important factors for a guitar cab would be rigidity and no voids in the plywood.I
Does using good woods instead of the usual plywood make the cabinet sound better? Like will I get a nicer sound? If not, I will just use the plywood, and glue a thin sheet of mahogany on the exterior of the cabinet for looks. Just fyi, I will be making an open backed cabinet.
Any tips for baffle material?
Do you know if the plywood at home depot here in Canada would be ok? I dont know if they carry Baltic or Russian Birch plywoods though, do you know perhaps?
Other guys have chimed in with good advice for most of your other questions, GZ.oh another question too,
"Little cabs will lose tone and will need hundreds of watts of drive. Theatres used cabs half the size of a typical refrigerator. They contained only one speaker and a horn"
Do I need a "horn" in my cabinet? or can I just use a 12" guitar amp speaker? Is this a horn like a tweeter? I have no idea what those things are lol...I only know what a speaker is.
Absolutely true Bev but as our friend A2T reminded me this thread started with a question about lead guitar cabinets. I stand by my point that these cabinets are little more than a frame to hold the speakers. You can make mistakes such as too thin/flexible woods but resonance, tuned ports or whatever just don't apply. Lead guitar has little or no energy below 100 hz or above 4-5 khz. Cabs built for this application invariably seem to be just big enough to house the speaker(s) and not much more. No manufacturer sees value in any extra wood costs as far as the delivered sound. Hifi cabs of course are a totally different animal.Good tips guys but you missed the most important one..
Volume as in air, look up the specs for your speaker or call the company that provided the speaker to find out how much air you need.
Think of it as a spring, the strength of the speaker can only compress so much air..more air is easier to compress than less.. a 12 that moves 1/4 inch in a 1 sqft box may work ok but a 12 that moves 1/2 may only move 1/4 in that same box loosing all bottom..now add 1/2 sqft of air and you have a totaly different sound.
Closed back and open back cab speakers are specific to that style, to cross over is not a good idea.
Every speaker is different in the specs..
Thick surrounds = bigger volume
Small coils/magnets = bigger volume
Big coils/thick surronds/big magnets = smaller volume
So just from looking at a speaker there is no way to know what volume works.
Once you do have the spec you can make the box a bit smaller to increase mids and highs, or bigger to increase bottom and roll off the highs.
Tuning can be done with rock wool, increasing the wool makes the box a bit bigger.
hope that helps.