While you were hoping to make stuff for lower cost, I have to say the build docs that BYOC produces are very good. They don't have the imagine-yourself-doing-THIS feel that Joe Gore's document does or that you can find in Small Bear's projects, they're still pretty decent.
PAiA Electronics in Oklahoma were kind of the godfathers of DIY audio electronics. The late John Simonton (PAiA founder) had a great many project articles in all the popular electronics hobbyist magazines, and Craig Anderton's various effects projects in Guitar Player, Contemporary Keyboard, and Modern Recording magazines were generally released through PAiA. Though relying exclusively on line drawings, their build docs set the standard for what BYOC would eventually come to do. They have generously posted pretty much all of their back-catalog in the threads you can find in their in-house forums here:
http://www.paia.com/talk/
With the emergence of cheap and efficient methods for designing and fabricating PCBs, we've seen a number of providers emerge whose primary business line is providing professionally-made PCBs for resissues and modded clones of popular vintage effects, as well as entirely new designs. There are plenty more, but a beginner would be very happy with what they can get from Madbean, Tonepad, and General Guitar Gadgets. GGG sells entire kits, like BYOC does, but you can also get just the board, and provide the parts and box yourself. All the technical info is provided free on their sites.
I typically make my own PCBs; something that has gotten ridiculously easy and cheap since I began this hobby in the late 70's. The pivotal factor has been the development of toner-transfer methods. "Toner-transfer" involves printing the PCB pattern with a laser printer (NO ink jet) onto a particular surface. The surface is some sort of emulsion, coating either a paper or acetate sheet. So this could be photo-paper, glossy magazine paper (save those National Geographics!), or specialized "press-and-peel" (PnP) sheets. The heart of the method is that the toner, when heated, wants to stick to the bare copper surface of the PCB board, more than the emulsion wants to stick to the backing sheet. Most folks will apply the sheet to the board with a clothes iron, but some folks get better results with laminator devices. Once you have an indication that the entire pattern has stuck to the copper, let the board cool down, then peel off the sheet. Done properly, only the pattern sticks to the board, and the peeled sheet has a sort of "negative" of where the pattern was printed onto the sheet. The board now has a layout of traces that will resist the etchant bath. Stick the board in the etchant, and in most instances, 15 minutes later you'll have an etched circuit board for the effect.
You'll still need to drill the holes, tin the resulting board, and trim it to size yourself, which is why many folks prefer to simply buy a pre-made board from the folks listed above. If the board is double-sided (to minimize the size), you're probably better off ordering a board until you have enough etches under your belt. But once you get the hang of it, and have the tools and setup, a person can go from finding a circuit and accompanying layout, to having an etched, drilled and populated circuit board in 90 minutes; a far cry from what we had to do back in the day.
So what's the added value of using PCBs, rather than veroboard or perfboard, and the layouts like the tagboard one for the Greer Green Giant? Memory. I don't know about other folks but keeping track of what has and hasn't been installed and connected/disconnected, when working with perf or vero, is the sort of thing that one should only attempt if blessed with lots of uninterrupted time. The nice thing about PCBs is that they "remember" the connections and missing parts for you. That can make a big difference in trouble-shooting (because only a fraction of what you build will work the first time you fire it up).
