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So I've got an LP Special and I've got these Fralin P-90s. The guitar had P-100s in it which are double stacked P-style pickups. So the cavities are deep. Too deep for the P-90s. The bridge cavity in particular is really deep. I've put some wood shims in the neck cavity and with the screws that came with the P-100s and the springs the neck P-90 is at a good height and not wobbly. But the bridge pickup is no where near being high enough.

What's the best way to do this? Should I put an insert into the cavity with a new set of mounting posts inset in it? Keep going with the shims and try and find some really, really long screws and a really long, solid set of springs to push that pickup up higher? It's these darn screws for the P-90s that are complicating the process, you never have these issues with 'buckers.
 

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Its funny you mention that as I just had the same problem with a P90 equipped guitar I am working on. You know that adhesive weather-stripping you put around your door frame to reduce drafts. It comes on a reel and you can get it at any hardware store. It worked perfectly for me. Just make sure its not too spongy (mine was pretty dense). Good luck!
 
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Its funny you mention that as I just had the same problem with a P90 equipped guitar I am working on. You know that adhesive weather-stripping you put around your door frame to reduce drafts. It comes on a reel and you can get it at any hardware store. It worked perfectly for me. Just make sure its not too spongy (mine was pretty dense). Good luck!
Cool. I was considering packing in something like this. Where did you land the extra long screws for the pickups? The ones I have now are easily 1 1/2" -- can you get them longer than that? I suppose I should make a trip to Home Depot and find out...

Also, do you find with this approach that the PUs vibrate too much? Or possibly not enough? The weather stripping might dampen the pickup/spring vibrations a little more than if the springs were sitting directly against wood I suppose.
 

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I would make a shim to thickness and lightly hot glue it in place and use original screws, springs. Later you could yank it out if you wanted to return to stock. Allow passage for your lead to access existing hole
Cheers
 
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I would make a shim to thickness and lightly hot glue it in place and use original screws, springs. Later you could yank it out if you wanted to return to stock. Allow passage for your lead to access existing hole
Cheers
Originally this is what I was going to do. And then I realized I don't know where to get the screw taps to put in the new block. Any pointers? Stewart-Macdonald doesn't seem to carry them. Or I'm suffering from lack of sleep and just can't see it...
 

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I don't think there would be any problem with vibration. I got the idea from my Charvel - that's what they used instead of springs. It seems to have worked because the POS (see the El Degas thread in Vintage) I am working on sounds GREAT!

As for the screws, mine weren't the ones I wanted to use as the screw heads are much bigger than they should be and actually touch the polepieces. Judging by what you are working with you probably want to choose better materials. Try checking Mcmaster-Carr or Digi-key for your screws.
 

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After reading the OP sponge and longer screws is the way to go. Also try the sponge pcs. that are included in bicycle helmets to tailor the fit.
 
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