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VERY nicely done. Novice-friendly, without being condescending or simplistic.

Myself, I find it helps to understand speakers sometimes if you think of them like fuses...which they can become if mistreated. A fuse passes current until it heats up enough and goes poof. Its' current rating, generally in amperes, indicates how much current it can pass before overheating. The "poof" is what stops the device being powered from damage. Of course, when the voice-coil in a speaker overheats and goes poof, that IS the "damage".

Part of the efficiency of any speaker lies in the close tolerances of the voice-coil gap. The closer the voice-coil is to the magnet in the middle, the more readily it translates incoming current into motion. But the challenge is that there can be NO SIDEWAYS WIGGLING if the coil is close to the magnet, because wiggling turns into rubbing, and rubbing generates heat. I'll wager none of us here have ever tried to start a fire, boy-scout style, by rubbing two sticks together several thousand times a second. If the cylinder that the voice-coil is wound around does not move flawlessly back and forth in the gap, without ever once touching the sides, you're in good shape. If it does not move with perfect piston motion, then it can become like rubbing sticks together at high speed. And of course, if there is a fuzz or any serious boost to mids and highs involved, you've made it worse.

High amplifier power, itself, combined with additional heat within the speaker, can be a death sentence for the voice coil; tantamount to getting a 10A fuze to try and pass 9.5A while hitting it with a heat-gun. Poof!

So, I like Jon's recommendations with respect to power-handling/requirements. On the other hand, I guess he sells more speakers if one doesn't follow those guidelines. ;)
 
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