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Maybe a little, but I took the round threaded adjuster washers off and pushed the bridge right down and it about the right height, but then the upper frets are not right. It's appears to banana up a little, like the reverse of fall-a-way.
I’m told if it’s an forward bow then there is not enough tension if it’s the other way that’s not good. I have paperwork from Taylor explaining that but it’s not for me lol
 

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Discussion Starter #22
I’m told if it’s an forward bow then there is not enough tension if it’s the other way that’s not good. I have paperwork from Taylor explaining that but it’s not for me lol
I think it's doing that thing where the body sinks in and the neck goes in at the body. I am going to see if zztomatoes aka Gerome Glebe Guitar Repairs will look at it. Maybe it's not as bad as I think. But if I have to pay for a complete setup and dressing and it's still a fucked up guitar I may pass it on to someone, only I will give full disclosure.
 

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My friend Swears by his. And I played one a few years back that was to die for. I also know that my guild and Gretsch are made in the same factory and as stated the bigsby isn’t as smooth as a us made one . Just little things that can be easily fixed. I don’t like the black top or Gretsch buckers , but I loved the hi lo tron pickups they had in them .


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Maybe you want dynasonics in your guild - not tv classics
I should have been more careful inspecting the guitar, but I met the guy at a hwy intersection and I was looking at it from the back of my van. The action was high, but I figured I would be able to adjust the action. But the bridge is as low as it can go without altering it. There are some cracks in the body I didn't see... This guitar is not a good one. Fuck.
Can you post a pic?
Is it a floating archtop style bridge with a tom on top?
Cause those are real easy to adjust

Nathan
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Maybe you want dynasonics in your guild - not tv classics

Can you post a pic?
Is it a floating archtop style bridge with a tom on top?
Cause those are real easy to adjust

Nathan
Mine is just like this one. Only my guitar is black. I have dropped the wheels as low as they go, not low enough. I took the wheels right out, in the ballpark. The wood part is glued or bolted to the body. So I can grind the metal part down, or remove some of the wood to lower the bridge.

 

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Not sure what you mean. Do you mean to remove the wood bridge?
Sometimes the metal pins that hold the bridge on are also screwed into the body of the guitar. It stops the bridge from moving around. Like my guild there is an hole on top of the metal poles that I thought was for raising the bridge but in reality it was for removing the bridge and bridge plate. Normally it’s would be a small Allen wrench “ key” as some people say . I must say if you like it I think fixing it up wouldn’t be too bad really.


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Mine is just like this one. Only my guitar is black. I have dropped the wheels as low as they go, not low enough. I took the wheels right out, in the ballpark. The wood part is glued or bolted to the body. So I can grind the metal part down, or remove some of the wood to lower the bridge.

Usually those are not attached.
It’s easy to take it off and sand it so it sits lower.

I don’t know how yours is attached, it could be glued, screwed or just slid onto pins.
Hopefully not glued but it’s not the end of the world of it is.
You can still sand it so the metal bridge sits lower.
You just have to be careful - I would use blue painters tape on the top of the guitar so I don’t accidentally scratch it.

Nathan
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Sometimes the metal pins that hold the bridge on are also screwed into the body of the guitar. It stops the bridge from moving around. Like my guild there is an hole on top of the metal poles that I thought was for raising the bridge but in reality it was for removing the bridge and bridge plate. Normally it’s would be a small Allen wrench “ key” as some people say . I must say if you like it I think fixing it up wouldn’t be too bad really.


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Usually those are not attached.
It’s easy to take it off and sand it so it sits lower.

I don’t know how yours is attached, it could be glued, screwed or just slid onto pins.
Hopefully not glued but it’s not the end of the world of it is.
You can still sand it so the metal bridge sits lower.
You just have to be careful - I would use blue painters tape on the top of the guitar so I don’t accidentally scratch it.

Nathan
I don't think I want to keep it. I shouldn't have to sand the bridge.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
I know we’re in a pandemic, but couldn’t you have checked it out a bit more?
I had to meet the guy on the intersection of a hwy. It was freezing cold and I had my van's back door open. I fucked up. I knew it was not right when I played it, but I assumed I would just lower the action. If I would have looked really close I would have seen the cracks in the body and had I lowered the action I would have noticed it couldn't go lower. I really fucked up. Stupid of me.
 

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Is this an older guitar, as I'm not sure if they still make them there?
Asking becaue I had a MIK Gretsch, but it was from the early 2000s.
It was a chambered (I beleive) single cut model. Very well made, the pickups didn't wow me though.

I gave that to a buddy and he still rocks that and loves it.
 

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I have my eye on one, but I have heard they aren't great. That they become upgrade hogs.

Any experience?
I like my G5420T but it isn't stock. I played one at a Guitar Center and the black top Filtertrons seemed a bit flat. Other than that I liked it. When I saw a used one online with TV Jones Classics I went for it. I think it's a decent guitar for the money but it's my first hollow body and I have yet to play it really loud. Some people recommend swapping the bridge for a non-adjustable one that matches the neck radius and I put a stainless steel C ompton on it but I'm not sure it did that much. I also put a black pick guard on it. So in short they certainly can be upgrade hogs (like any other) but if you start with a used one it can be worth it. I've had mine for about a year and a half and surprisingly I don't think I need a different guitar. Good luck. I hope this helps.
 

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Never owned a Gretsch until a few months ago. Always found the Gretsch sound interesting so I tried several models at my local L&M. After banging on a Georgia Green G5622T ELECTROMATIC Center Block Double-Cut With Bigsby and Broad'tron pickups through a Traynor YCV4050 amp with 6L6 tubes I just had to have it. The guitar played beautifully and the Broad'Tron pickups delivered that shimmer on the clean channel and tons of creamy mid bite on the overdrive channel. That centre block hollow body tone just speaks to me.

There is a new G5622 model for 2021 arriving in February with the V-Stoptail instead of the Bigsby. I may trade in my current G5622T for it as I could do without the Bigsby. I have a few other guitars with a tremolo system when required.

I think for the money these Gretsch Electromatic guitars are a great buy as the construction, playability and sound is very good for a price point of $1,000 - $1,200. I played several Gibson Epiphone centre block models but to me they did not come close to the quality of the Gretch. Give them a try,... you may be pleasantly surprised.
Gretsch G5622T Electromatic Center Block.jpeg
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Gretsch G5622 Elelctromatic Center Block.jpeg
 

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I had to meet the guy on the intersection of a hwy. It was freezing cold and I had my van's back door open. I fucked up. I knew it was not right when I played it, but I assumed I would just lower the action. If I would have looked really close I would have seen the cracks in the body and had I lowered the action I would have noticed it couldn't go lower. I really fucked up. Stupid of me.
Did you get a good price on it as to ease some of the sting?
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Did you get a good price on it as to ease some of the sting?
Yes I got it at a pretty good price.... To update, I took off the old heavy strings and put on my usual 9-42 Super Slinkys and the neck became pretty normal. ZZtomatoes (Glebe Guitar Repair) looked at it and said the cracks are in the surface, nothing to worry about. So the only thing is the string height, which I will fix by either grinding down the metal bridge or filing down the top of the wood bridge to allow the thumb screws to go lower. Then I will see where I am at.
 

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either grinding down the metal bridge or filing down the top of the wood bridge
I did that with one years ago. Just the thumb screws area. It caused the bridge to rest on the wood base which actually enhanced the resonance.
Start with that, then sand down the bridge base a bit if you need more drop?
 

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Discussion Starter #39
I did that with one years ago. Just the thumb screws area. It caused the bridge to rest on the wood base which actually enhanced the resonance.
Start with that, then sand down the bridge base a bit if you need more drop?
I will have to take out the threaded posts to do it cleanly. A dremel would make short work of it. I could also file right across the whole top of the wooden bridge, but the connecting wood would get very thin.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
I did that with one years ago. Just the thumb screws area. It caused the bridge to rest on the wood base which actually enhanced the resonance.
Start with that, then sand down the bridge base a bit if you need more drop?
Did you sand it to be a rounded recess or did you go straight across?
 
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