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Discussion Starter #1
I really want an Ampeg V-4 head. Someone is selling the top part of an Ampeg VT-22 in the casing of an original Ampeg V-4. These amps are supposed to be the same, the VT-22 is a combo and the V-4 is a head. So would this be the exact same as an Ampeg V-4?

Another example is say you had the top part of a Fender Twin Reverb in the box of a Fender Showman. The Twin is a combo, and the Showman is the head version of the combo...Would these be the same amps?

Hopefully that made sense.

Er...I meant to put this in the Amps & Cabs section.
 

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I really want an Ampeg V-4 head. Someone is selling the top part of an Ampeg VT-22 in the casing of an original Ampeg V-4. These amps are supposed to be the same, the VT-22 is a combo and the V-4 is a head. So would this be the exact same as an Ampeg V-4?

Another example is say you had the top part of a Fender Twin Reverb in the box of a Fender Showman. The Twin is a combo, and the Showman is the head version of the combo...Would these be the same amps?

Hopefully that made sense.

Er...I meant to put this in the Amps & Cabs section.
The Twin and the Showman aren't the same amps. The Showman has no reverb and on the normal channel only has treb and bass, where on the twin it has treb, mid and bass. Silverface Showman is rated at 85 watts, where the Twin can be 100 or 135 watts depending on exact model....now that being said, when Fender brought out the Dual Showman in 68 it basically is a Twin in a head version. Later models of both the Twin and the Dual Showman had line outs, pull boost etc and later Twins also had a master volume. Straight Silverface Showman amps were available from 68-70 and the Dual Showman from 68-81.

The Ampegs are the same amp, the V-4 being the head version, the VT-22 is the 2x12,(both rated at 120watts) and the VT-40 is a 4x10 version of the V-2, with these being rated at 60 watts. The V-4 series are killer amps, but they were originall designed to use the 7027 power tubes, but can be set up for a more readily and economically available power tube like the 6L6 etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Cool, hopefully I'll be getting that VT-22 in the V-4 casing.

Anything I should be aware of when getting tube amps shipped?
 

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take the tubes out first and pack them seperately :)
 

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take the tubes out first and pack them seperately :)
Very good advice, I had one sent to me with the tubes in, and 3 out the 5tubes were dead when it arrived, including a Mullard GZ 34 rectifier. It came from a good friend of mine, so I suspect they were fine when it was sent.
 

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take the tubes out first and pack them seperately :)
Good advice, it is what I have done with the couple of amps I have shipped as well. Not to seem completely anal, but I also drew up up a small map of the tube locations, and numbered each socket, and tube so that they could be returned to the same socket that they came out of. May not be as important with an amp that has only one bias pot, but with an amp with two or more pots, it allows you to return the tubes to the proper sockets that they where adjusted in..... my 2¢ worth.
 

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Very good advice, I had one sent to me with the tubes in, and 3 out the 5tubes were dead when it arrived, including a Mullard GZ 34 rectifier. It came from a good friend of mine, so I suspect they were fine when it was sent.
Bummer!

Tubes are surprisingly tough when cold. Like light bulbs, if they're hot and suddenly shaken the heaters can break and the tube is dead.

When shipping in an amp however, the entire weight/mass of the amp absorbs energy from a mechanical shock like being dropped and transfers this to the tubes. Even cold, this is a lot to take!

Best to always take the tubes out and wrap them each in their own scrap of bubblewrap. Then put them in a smaller box filled with "cheesies" and put that box in the larger containing the amp surrounded with at least an inch or two of more "cheesies".

The idea is to have the tubes shake on their own, with only their own light mass to respond to a shock.

Works for me, anyway.

:food-smiley-004:
 
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