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Discussion Starter #1
We were a but slow at work yesterday so I came home and played around on the work bench :)
It is a BYOC stereo analog flanger, didn't have enough time to get it done but a got all the resistors, chip sockets,and diodes installed.

These BYOC kits are very nice, great instructions.

Step 1 with any build around here begins the same way, coffee :)

Step 2 - clean up the disaster from the last project.

Step 3 - Organize parts, treys like this are a great thing to have around for projects with small parts. It is actually a utensil drawer organizer.

Step 4 - The fun part, assembly/solder time :) I hope to get some time soon to finish it up.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Had a little time tonight, got all the caps and trim pot installed. Not too much left, I guess I should get the enclosure ready.

 

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Were you going to set the bias trimmer by ear or using a scope?

I have to confess to some difficulty in understanding their rational for using two BBDs with a shared bias. If the intent was to mimic what used to be done with the two halves of an MN3010 or SAD1024, and use two parallel paths for optimal clock-noise cancellation, then why is there no "balance" trimmer to match the two BBD outputs? Puzzling.

The other thing that's puzzling about the wschematic is that it suggests use of an MN3207 or MN3208 in the second socket. Someone explain to me how this:

fits in a socket intended for this:

Perhaps they meant to say MN3209, which will plug into the same socket.
 

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Here's the answer. Although the traditional MN3208 only uses 8 pins on a 14-pin footprint, some more recent clones, such as Beiling's, stuff the 8 pins into an 8-pin DIP format. A 3209 is 256 stages, where a 3208 is 2048. Given the same clock, the 3209 would yield notches starting 2 octaves above the 3207, where the 3208 would yield notches starting an octave below.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Were you going to set the bias trimmer by ear or using a scope?
I was planning on just setting by ear as per the instructions. I have a scope at work but would need guidance (with the setting procedure, not with the scope :) )
 

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While it's finished (congrats), lifting one end of R25 yields vibrato. So,you may want to consider popping a hole and installing another toggle for a second effect. Given that most commercial flangers that use FET switching simply cancel the wet to "bypass" the effect, they can't easily cancel the dry signal to produce vibrato. Seems a shame to forego the opportunity to have it here.

BTW, the "stereo" is a little different than some other stereo flangers. In many instances, the two outputs are used to yield negative and positive flanging, by combining the wet with dry for one output, and inverting the wet to combine with dry for the other. Here, wet and dry are combined for a "master" signal, which is fed to one output and inverted and sent to the other output. That arrangement should not yield any tonal difference between the two outputs, which seems a bit of a waste of an output.
 
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