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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys... kinda the "in" thing now, making new hardware look old... anyone got some relics they've done and want to show off? Maybe mention which method was used?

Looking online now and so many methods, be nice to see how some of them turned out. Was thinking the muriatic acid vapour method on gold myself...
 

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My biggest tip is less is more with aged hardware.
Rarely if ever do you see vintage hardware with scratchesand scuffs and yet I see so many use scouring pads and steel wool as if that’s how people treated their vintage guitars.

My other tip is on plastics, again, people scratching the piss out of their plastics. It’s quite the opposite; worn and quite shiny and polished. If you think about it, something that is worn and touched repeatedly takes on a shine. Corners may soften but always remain shiny, unless the pet was removed and lived in a parts bin for 50 years.

Nooks and crannys will often take on darker grime and another thing I do as a final touch is let the aged parts like machine heads and brides collect dust sitting in my shop and then allow general handling to naturally wear that away during assembly.
 

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Muriatic acid, but man that stuff is nasty. I used it at work once and got a whiff. I thought I was going to cough up a lung. But you only need a really small amount. Lot's of video's on youtube. I have plans to try this as I want to upgrade some hardware on my Greco Ultra Thin. The replacements look too new. You need a huge tupperware and a small one. You put like an ounce or two in the small tupperware and put that and all the metal parts you want aged in the large tupperware and close the lid. Check every 20 minutes until desired look is achieved. The acid fumes will do all the work. Wash the parts with windex or baking soda and water to neutralize the acid. Dispose of the acid
 
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http://instagr.am/p/BmEmzXbAZXe/
http://instagr.am/p/BmCLkYUglsg/
I use synthetic steel wool, scotch brite pads/etc to simulate where the natural wear would be.
I find the key is to physically age it first then muriatic acid.
Then use polishing compound to bring some shine back.

Don’t overdo it, you can always add more aging later.

Be really careful with the muriatic acid that is nasty stuff.
Gloves, eye protection, respirator, a well ventilated work space.
Seriously miserable stuff.

Nathan
 

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I used the acid trick, works really well. I used a small Tupperware cup inside a big clear Tupperware bin. Put all the parts you want aged in the big clear bin, a few teaspoons of acid in the small cup and put it in the big bin. Seal the top of the big bin and wait 20 min or so and keep checking.

The metal will start to look like it’s sweating. Once the parts look sweaty enough you can take the parts out and let them sit overnight.

Check in the morning and they should look aged, slightly. If you want more “aged” put the parts in again 20-30 min. Then remove and leave overnight again.

It takes forever but if you rush it or leave the parts in to long, then take them out, the next day it may look like crap.

The biggest thing is cheap metal versus quality metal. I’ve always used fender American vintage parts so it takes forever. The cheaper stuff takes no time at all and will age quickly, so look for the metal sweating. If it looks soaked after a short time take it out.

Another thing is don’t wash the parts off with water. Just remove them and let them sit and air dry overnight. I didn’t sand or ruff any parts up prior.

The first pic is about 40 min and then overnight to air dry. Then I just take a old toothbrush with a bit of oil and rub it all over then rub that off. The second pic is avri gold hardware left in to long, still not bad but a heavy aged look.

C3D0AF0A-70EE-42D7-88D5-9B6583D2F44D.jpeg
0C52B03C-EB2E-4D41-A794-C20BFA7A31A3.jpeg
 

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Just for reference, the gold hardware I left in to long and it turned out ok but really over done. Then the Jaguar I washed off with water and let dry overnight, turns hazy like.

The 3rd time was the orange strat hardware, 20 or 40 min then overnight. That one turned out the best.
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Just for reference, the gold hardware I left in to long and it turned out ok but really over done. Then the Jaguar I washed off with water and let dry overnight, turns hazy like.

The 3rd time was the orange strat hardware, 20 or 40 min then overnight. That one turned out the best.
View attachment 237118 View attachment 237120 View attachment 237122
Love the strat with the gold guard and laquer checking!!

You bring up a good point. I tried to age a made in china control plate the same way I age made in usa ones - completely ate through the chrome showing the copper underneath.

It looked kinda cool....but not like an aged guitar part.

Nathan
 

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Yes the cheaper parts are more like a chrome spray paint other than actual nickel plating on the more expensive parts.

I think that’s why the gold turned out really aged, the plating came off quickly. So do a test piece of metal first if your going the acid route.

Thanks on the strat comment, my best partscaster yet, I don’t even look at custom shop Strats anymore, well if it’s a good deal!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Just for reference, the gold hardware I left in to long and it turned out ok but really over done. Then the Jaguar I washed off with water and let dry overnight, turns hazy like.

The 3rd time was the orange strat hardware, 20 or 40 min then overnight. That one turned out the best.
The Jag looks cool, the green to tri-burst. I've seen that a few times... any ideas what started that?

Like... did Fender use to do tri-bursts, and if didn't turn out right just painted over with a solid colour, then with natural wear and tear the colour came through? or was it just something someone did once and the look kinda caught on?
 

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I don’t think fender would have done it on purpose. People would take their sunburst guitars and paint over them just to change the colour. The custom shop does it also to replicate some of the vintage gear.

David Gilmours black strat was originally sunburst that he paint over with black. It wore through over time and you can see the sunburst coming through.
 

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Find a friend with acidic sweat and let them play a set!
 

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Muriatic acid, but man that stuff is nasty. I used it at work once and got a whiff. I thought I was going to cough up a lung. But you only need a really small amount. Lot's of video's on youtube. I have plans to try this as I want to upgrade some hardware on my Greco Ultra Thin. The replacements look too new. You need a huge tupperware and a small one. You put like an ounce or two in the small tupperware and put that and all the metal parts you want aged in the large tupperware and close the lid. Check every 20 minutes until desired look is achieved. The acid fumes will do all the work. Wash the parts with windex or baking soda and water to neutralize the acid. Dispose of the acid
I did this once on a boho(oil can guitar) works good. It takes some patience as it is a slow process. I left the hardware overnight and the effect was quite noticeable.

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk
 

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The Jag looks cool, the green to tri-burst. I've seen that a few times... any ideas what started that?

Like... did Fender use to do tri-bursts, and if didn't turn out right just painted over with a solid colour, then with natural wear and tear the colour came through? or was it just something someone did once and the look kinda caught on?
They used to have bursts in stock.
So if someone wanted a custom colour they would just spray overtop.
Over time it would wear through.

Or maybe it was ones that the painter [email protected]@ked up.

Nathan
 

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They used to have bursts in stock.
So if someone wanted a custom colour they would just spray overtop.
Over time it would wear through.

Or maybe it was ones that the painter [email protected]@ked up.

Nathan

That’s what I read on the trusted internet. In the early 60’s fender had a ton of sunburst guitars, most of them being jaguars and jazzmasters. Later on the jags and jazzmaster(they were not hot sellers)so a lot of them got resprayed.

Mine is obviously not vintage but that’s sort of what I was going for. A resprayed jaguar
 

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Discussion Starter #17
@JonnyD that's what I was saying... Not that Fender did it on purpose, rather they painted over a triburst and people wore through.

Though I figured it was tribursts with stain defects, not overstock.
 

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Well to be correct the ones they did in sunburst that didn’t have a nice grain got the “target burst”. It’s more yellow so you can’t see the grain, that was done in the 60’s.

But yeah shitty grain got the target burst or just a solid colour and then later on some were even painted over rather than just sit there.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
@JonnyD did you paint that green one?

Nice combo the green to tri-burst. I've been trying to track down the colour Fender uses for Antique Olive but haven't gotten anywhere. Few people posted replies, but don't seem to understand that just because it has the same name, doesn't make it the same colour. Few Fender colours are a bit elusive. I know many are based on car paints, but Antique Olive and Midnight Wine I've not yet found... though Midnight Wine seems close to Dark Toreador Red Metallic... close enough that my P Bass Squier is getting painted that colour. Possibly my black Squier SE as well.
 

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No I didn’t paint it. It’s a Johnny Marr signature Jaguar in KO orange. It was in ruff shape when I bought it. I wanted to strip it but ended up at the 7” thick polyurethane sealer, “all nitro” fender says.

Anyway it would not come off without a blow torch so I sent it to MJT to have stripped and refinished. I figured it’s already going to be expensive might as well go all out and get a colour over sunburst.

The olive fender colour your after, it’s not the Antigua colour is it?
 
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