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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This has to do with my other thread started a couple of years ago.
https://guitarscanada.com/index.php?threads/project-to-affinity-and-beyond.77839/

I dragged my ass completing this one, and am really close to the final setup. I have 2 necks. The original Squier Affinity neck and a Maverick neck. Both necks fit the pocket, but the Maverick neck depth in the pocket is a little too high. I measured close to a 1 mm in difference between the squier joint and the Maverick, but the widths are correct.

So, Squier neck and strat bridge are setup and play well up to the 12th fret, then after the 12th it goes waaaay South on the some/frets strings for buzzing. So I think an adjustment needs to be made at the neck joint and a fret level is required. I'm unsure if these are mutually exclusive or not though.

Then I swap out the Squier neck for the Maverick, and the strings that were as described above won't even clear the frets with the exact same setup as above. To me this indicates that the neck joint is too shallow on the Squier body. But this neck is setup much better than the original as far as fret level and finish.

So given this situation, where do I start if I want to use the Maverick neck? I may need to buy some specific tools if you care to list the needed ones. All I have is a string action gauge, a radius gauge, and a few straight edges. I also have a number of wood working tools along with the regular Joe Blow homeowner stuff, but nothing specifically for this job.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Also, are there any key measurements I should know about? I understand that shims are fairly common in Fender guitars when there is neck hump, but I really don't know WTF I'm doing honestly.
 

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If the Squire neck frets out beyond the 12th fret it may be due to lack of "fall off". There should be approximately .003" of fall-off after the neck joins the body to allow clearance for the strings to vibrate as you get closer to the bridge. Anyway, using a straight edge (with little to no relief on the neck) check to see if the frets fall away after the 12th fret or so. I've seen the opposite on cheaper brands such that the neck/frets actually rise after the 12th fret making a good set-up almost impossible.

If I understand your situation correctly, the Maverick neck is thicker at the pocket such that the strings won't clear the frets, but is increasing the height of the saddles an option?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Start with a neck shim at the top of the body.

That's pretty much what I was planning, but in the neck pocket (example 2). Is that what you mean?

If the Squire neck frets out beyond the 12th fret it may be due to lack of "fall off". There should be approximately .003" of fall-off after the neck joins the body to allow clearance for the strings to vibrate as you get closer to the bridge. Anyway, using a straight edge (with little to no relief on the neck) check to see if the frets fall away after the 12th fret or so. I've seen the opposite on cheaper brands such that the neck/frets actually rise after the 12th fret making a good set-up almost impossible.

If I understand your situation correctly, the Maverick neck is thicker at the pocket such that the strings won't clear the frets, but is increasing the height of the saddles an option?
Thanks for that. I'm honestly unsure if increasing the height of the saddles is an option. Right now there is no thread showing at the top of the saddles, so they seem high already. I'll take some pics later and post for reference.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Thanks Greco. I watched one like that recently as well from Crimson Custom guitars. But he gets fairly Master Luthiery on it lol. And your video is exactly the issue I'm having with the Squier neck.

Damn. Do I need an angle gauge? And a radius gauge like his?
 

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Damn. Do I need an angle gauge? And a radius gauge like his?
I think/assume (but I'm not sure) some way of measuring angles is going to be important or, at the very least, useful. I'm not sure of the best tool for this purpose and will be very interested in what others suggest.

This article is what I have followed for acoustics:
FRETS.COM

Are you talking about the radius gauge he uses to measure the interior radius of the pocket. Personally, I wouldn't buy one. Get a close estimate of the radius by putting various drill bits against the inside pocket radius until you find one of the correct radius. It should be marked on the drill or on the bit holder/stand (this obviously assumes you have a good assortment of bits) Then, just use a compass to recreate the radius.
 

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@Lincoln What do you think of the approach for neck angle measuring in the video in post #11? Just curious and always respect your knowledge and opinions.
 

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@Lincoln What do you think of the approach for neck angle measuring in the video in post #11? Just curious and always respect your knowledge and opinions.
The string thing? Yes, I do that with pretty much every guitar I build or parts caster I put together. It's by far the quickest and easiest way I know of to make sure the thing will play when you're done. Both side to side and up & down. As well as making sure pickup poles line up with the strings. When you're dealing with something as long as a neck is, a little tweak in angle will make huge difference
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Pete, you should come for a visit some afternoon when the roads get good again. Bring that guitar and we'll run it through a setup and see what's going on with it. :cool:
I'll message you Dave. I wanted to stay out of your grill on this, but since you have the knowledge , skills, and experience, it's pretty much a no brainer at this point. Wanted to talk to you about some Amp relatred stuff anyways, so maybe we can set up a morning or afternoon if possible. Thanks man.
 

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I'll message you Dave. I wanted to stay out of your grill on this, but since you have the knowledge , skills, and experience, it's pretty much a no brainer at this point. Wanted to talk to you about some Amp relatred stuff anyways, so maybe we can set up a morning or afternoon if possible. Thanks man.
You're always welcome here Pete. I've got all the fancy straight edges & crap, and it just makes figuring out what's going wrong a whole lot easier.
I've gone back to work again but just half days, so I'm home by noon every day. I've also got some amps you can take home & demo for a while if you want. Princeton Reverb, brown-face Deluxe, etc. :D
 
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