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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am trying to ascertain how to improve,the action on a 1968 Ya,aha first generation RB 180 acoustic guitar. I have watched several videos on the subject on YouTube, but they all show the rod being adjusted at the sound hole, but my rod is adjusted at the nut. I am wondering if a right turn at the sound hole would also be a right turn at the nut.



Yes
 

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Well, if you don't remember, just try it while listening to a string you hit.

Before working the truss rod, how is the saddle at bridge ? Shaved down ??
Is there a bump by neck joint ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yes, doesn’t matter which end you’re working from- clockwise to tighten the truss rod, counterclockwise to loosen.
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Well, if you don't remember, just try it while listening to a string you hit.

Before working the truss rod, how is the saddle at bridge ? Shaved down ??
Is there a bump by neck joint ?
The major symptom here is that the strings in the area between 5thnand 15th fret are too high where it makes it quite difficult to play. At the bridge all seems oh. Of course the saddle could be brought down, but not enough to rectify the difference. The guitar has bow, not a hump
 

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As mentioned, righty tighty lefty loosie. Just make sure you're looking from the headstock towards the bridge when you apply that logic.

I'd give it no more than a 1/4 turn at most and then check to see how it is - better or worse.
 

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Most acoustics of any older age I try have the thing where the bridge lifts up, or the front of the hole sinks in, or the neck tilts up causing what you describe. I was reading about it and was not surprised to hear it's common for any quality of acoustic guitar needing a neck reset at 20 or 25 years of age.
 

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Press the low E down at the 1st fret and at the same time press it at the 12th or maybe 15th.

What's the gap like at the 5th or there abouts when you do that. This will give you an idea where the relief is at.

Most of my acoustics are around .05 of a mm clearance.

Depends on the guitar though; some won't go that low w/out problems.

How much saddle is left. Also, you can put a straight edge on the frets and see where it hits the bridge.
 

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the strings in the area between 5thnand 15th fret are too high
I'd give it no more than a 1/4 turn at most and then check to see how it is
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Capo the first fret, hold down the string at 15 and measure in the middle (~ 8th fret).
Small gap is what you're shooting for.
Product Rectangle Font Parallel Eyewear


I try to do 1 mil or closer.

Rectangle Wood Gas Font Cylinder
 

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Before working on a guitar, know what you do.
1-Find what is wrong and fix it.
2-Don't play lotto with adjustments.

Check neck bow first.
Most of the time if guitar did not see a luthier in the last years, truss rod may need an adjustment and it will fix your action issue.
 

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View attachment 421320
Capo the first fret, hold down the string at 15 and measure in the middle (~ 8th fret).
Small gap is what you're shooting for.
View attachment 421322

I try to do 1 mil or closer.

View attachment 421321
Taking the measurement at 8 freight is only a general indication.

It can be as well at the 7 as at the 9 th. The principle is to measure where the truss rod "works". And that's where the distance is the greatest.

So it's case by case.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Before working on a guitar, know what you do.
1-Find what is wrong and fix it.
2-Don't play lotto with adjustments.

Check neck bow first.
Most of the time if guitar did not see a luthier in the last years, truss rod may need an adjustment and it will fix your action issue.
I will start testing things tomorrow taking measurements an will communicate with forum my findings
 

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Post some pics of the important areas. Side view of the bridge showing the guitar top and saddle hight and a pic looking down the bass side of the neck from the nut towards the body join. My guess is that you need the neck reset.
 
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