[Mark Brown]

So it is "winterish", we don't really do winter out here on the coast. If I scrape the frost off my car it kind of looks like snow??

Anyhow, I have decided it is time to make myself another amp head. This time around I figure I will build a 5E3 "Tweed Deluxe" except there won't be any tweed anywhere and it will likely live in yet another aluminum housing on a shelf.

For anyone that might have built one (I know it is common) want to offer some good advice or pitfalls to avoid??

I am looking to try my hand at a point to point build because that looks kinda fun and I can shrink the chassis right down and then plunk the tubes up on top and controls on the front. This lends itself to housing them on shelves rather well which in my particular circumstance really adds a benefit that cannot be overlooked.

Got all the parts and pieces in a cart at NextGen right now and the Tubes ready at Lee's Electronics and frankly the whole affair will be just shy of $500 so how can I even say no?

Anyhow, appreciate any advice you might have to offer.

Thanks.

 

[Blamecanada312]

Right on! Sounds fun. Dont forget to post the build.

 

[Mark Brown]

Right on! Sounds fun. Dont forget to post the build.

If there is one thing you never have to worry about where I am concerned, it is the fact I will post all about it

 

[Always12AM]

ISOLATE TONE AND VOLUME POTS WITH ISOLATION WASHERS IF YOU GET GROUND LOOP HUM

PAY CLOSE ATTENTION TO GROUND LABELS ON THESE TERMINALS STRIPS


RESISTOR LOOK UP

CAPACITOR CALCULATOR

ROBINETTE HELP

STEWMAC HELP

LASTLY, while you are already ordering parts, order enough to also make a 5F2A if you don’t like how loud or how much bass is offered with the 5E3 or if you just plain want to benefit from only needing one power and one common 12AX7 preamp tube.

 

[Alan Small]

I suggest using one proven schematic only...do not mix n match if you want success first time around.

If you have the personality to learn by failure then by all means mix n match several drawings and "mods" before you complete a working successful amp🤪

 

[Mark Brown]

I suggest using one proven schematic only...do not mix n match if you want success first time around.

If you have the personality to learn by failure then by all means mix n match several drawings and "mods" before you complete a working successful amp🤪

Rob is the Man, Rob will show me the way

 

[RBlakeney]

I suggest using a mix and match as I did for great sucess. Also get a seafoam custom cabinet designed.

 

[Mark Brown]

I suggest using a mix and match as I did for great sucess.

I do not know what this means?

 

[RBlakeney]

I do not know what this means?

I'll PM you

 

[DavidP]

I'm still in the throes of overhauling my 20yr old 5E3 Homebrew reno and have a list of tweaks that I can PM, but here are some major ones to consider:

• use a 270ohm cathode bias resistor rather than the 250 usually spec'd, especially given today's AC outlet voltages; and 10W is always better than 5W IMHO.
• boost the first two B+ filter caps to 22uF vs. the original spec 16uF
• an amp tech bud loves to put in a Deluxe Reverb OT for a little more headroom

Everyone wants/needs a 5E3!!!

 

[Mark Brown]

I got a 10W and have a small assortment of 5w ceramics to see what difference difference may make.

I build to original spec, then I can sort out what things I dont like. If I start at the top, well... then there isn't anything left to discover

As for tweaks I'm all ears. Seems there is an endless assortment of things one can do to modify this particular circuit and it is all very well documented. Problem with that is I get overload lol

 

[DavidP]

Most tweed-era amps were built when line voltages were supposed to be about 117vac but it was still common to run 110v-115v. Raw line voltage on my bench today is... 121-122 vac!! That does make a difference with the actual B+ voltages in the amp.
Ideally your 250ohm resistors measure on the high side (ideally 260-265ohm). I find that the newer ceramic brick resistors are all over the map in measured value. Just don't drop in anything under 250ohms.

 

[Mark Brown]

Most tweed-era amps were built when line voltages were supposed to be about 117vac but it was still common to run 110v-115v. Raw line voltage on my bench today is... 121-122 vac!! That does make a difference with the actual B+ voltages in the amp.
Ideally your 250ohm resistors measure on the high side (ideally 260-265ohm). I find that the newer ceramic brick resistors are all over the map in measured value. Just don't drop in anything under 250ohms.

I measure everything going in. Curiosity gets the better of me for the most part but also because I'm too lazy to look up colour codes.

What DOESNT work in that space is a 250K ohm resistor. Ask me how I know

 

[Powdered Toast Man]

I suggest using a mix and match as I did for great sucess. Also get a seafoam custom cabinet designed.

View attachment 449269 View attachment 449270

Holy shit that's sexy!

 

[Powdered Toast Man]

I know you're doing no cab, but if you change your mind the correct speaker is the Weber 12A125A.

I did my build like 11 years ago so I don't recall many specifics. Mine was a Mission 5E3 kit and as far as I've seen Bruce is out of the kit business now. Shame because it was a really good kit. I've still got it and it's been 100% trouble free.

 

[Mark Brown]

I know you're doing no cab, but if you change your mind the correct speaker is the Weber 12A125A.

I did my build like 11 years ago so I don't recall many specifics. Mine was a Mission 5E3 kit and as far as I've seen Bruce is out of the kit business now. Shame because it was a really good kit. I've still got it and it's been 100% trouble free.

My kit is all from NextGen, you have to look really hard because they hide all the parts of the kit all over their website and you have to find them. It makes it rather a fun game

As for cabs, I have the 12" for the Traynor. That will work well enough for plugging it in. If the 35w 4ohm works for a 5w champ, a 60w G12 Vibtage 30 should work for a 15W

 

[DavidP]

As @Powdered Toast Man most eloquently noted - the only/correct/ideal/accept-no-substitutes speaker for a 5E3 is the Weber 21A125A!!

 

[Mark Brown]

As @Powdered Toast Man most eloquently noted - the only/correct/ideal/accept-no-substitutes speaker for a 5E3 is the Weber 21A125A!!

I will commit the sacrilege then and plug it into the TAE and that will cause the apocalypse, I think

Then run it though my BX8A's... mua ha ha ha ha. I am purely evil.

 

[DBS_180]

I'm planning to do a 5E3 build soon myself. I'd reduce the coupling caps from .1uF, those values are pretty large. A full wave rectifier may be more reliable than a tube rectifier, you can mimic the "sag" via high-wattage dropping resistors off the PT secondary. Also consider voicing 1 channel differently than the other, since the only difference between the Bright and Normal channel is that 1 bright cap.

 

[diyfabtone]

100 to 130 ohm, 10W resistor, in series after the diodes before the first cap will get you into the approximate voltage drop range (30-40) to increase the ps impedance for some 'sag' - about the same as having a 5Y3 instead of SS diodes. It could be switched too if you want the in/out option.