The "What to oil your fretboard with" Debate [Archive] - GuitarsCanada.com

MaxWedge

03-20-2006, 02:16 PM

Until last June I never give this much thought as all I had was a maple board and it seemed to require very little, just clean it with a lint free rag. Since June I have been dealing with a rosewood board and was suggested to use Dr.Stringfellow's LEM-OIL. Seems to be alright and feels great when fresh, but it does seem to dry quickly. :)

StevieMac

03-20-2006, 02:23 PM

One vote for simple tung oil. Outlasts anything else I've tried. :food-smiley-004:

Mahogany Martin

03-20-2006, 02:40 PM

I'm reading How to make your guitar play great by Dan Erlewine and he recommends lindseed oil. I remember a few years back a friend who was into martial arts and whatever specialty he was in, he was using sticks and he mentionned linseed oil as well. Only I believe that he mixed it with orange or something to take the smell of lindseed out. It gave a good protection for whatever wood they use for their sticks (hickory??) and I remember him saying that it made the wood *smooth*.

I guess lindseed oil really penetrates and doesn't dried out to quickly so it gives a good protection. Dan Erlewine warns that lindseed is really flamable (fire hazard) and he also warns that no matter what you use to be careful not to apply too much and not to let it get in the frets because it can loosen the frets. I'd be curious to hear if pros in here use lindseed and what they think about it?

Edit: I should add that this is recommended for rosewood figerboards and not maple (of course).

Baba Rumraisin

03-20-2006, 03:36 PM

Personally I wouldn't use linseed oil (boiled or raw) on my guitar neck or anywhere else on my guitar as it never really dries. That's why its so popular for use on boats and ships. It can and will get sticky and pick up dirt and debris. I have been involved in furniture for thirty years and a lot of what is called patina in some old furniture is simply imbedded dirt in the oil or shellac finish.
Actually, I'm not sure why you'd want to put anything on the neck at all.
What do I use? There are those that will curse me for this but I occasionally use Armour-All on my guitar necks to clean them and speed them up. I know refinishers will tell you not to because it repels paint and finishes when you try to re-finish the guitar and yes that's true, but it can be overcome with ammonia based cleaners which will also add that special look of aging to the wood.
I'm bad I know.

GuitarsCanada

03-20-2006, 05:01 PM

Good stuff, I like to hear what people think on this one. It has to be one of the widest ranging topics regarding guitar care. I have had people swear on lemon oil, linseed oil etc and offer 100 reasons why not to use either. I have been using a conconction from Dunlop recently that does a nice job. I do believe that it needs to be done at least a few times a year. If the guitar gets played a lot a certain amount of oils will be transfered from your fingers and that is evident by where the board gets the most work, this varies with the person though.

But you also get dirt building up as well. So whenever I give mine a good cleaning I normally finish it off with an oil treatment. I used to use lemon oil but found it dried out fairly quickly. This stuff from Dunlop leaves the board nice without any stickeness at all.

ajcoholic

03-20-2006, 05:36 PM

I use what Dan Suggests to use in his other book, the Guitar Player Repair one.

Watco danish oil. I Use it a lot in my woodworking business (have for years and years) and although it is linseed oil based, it is a drying oil and has a very very fine pigment (you cannot see the grain - unlike some stains that dont grind the pigments fine enough).

Watco comes in many shades, I generally use medium walnut for my rw and ebony boards.

IMO Deft oil would also be a good choice - its similar but I am sure its tung oil based.

Other than that plain tung oil or polymerized tung oil would work just fine.

I dont like using anything but a true drying oil, for the reasons mentioned above. Raw linseed WILL dry - but it takes weeks or longer.

Them's my opinions :)

AJC

Lester B. Flat

03-20-2006, 08:29 PM

I've never oiled any of my rosewood boards. The reason rosewood is a desirable wood for fretboards is beacause it does'nt require any finish, like maple, and it's silky to the touch. I just wipe mine clean with every string change, sometimes with a small amount of alcohol which evaporates before it can soak in. If it's clean it's slippery enough for me. It seems odd that Dan Erlewine would recommend linseed oil but also says be careful not to get it on the frets. That seems incongruous to me. But hey, what do I know? I'm just a guitar player. :D

Mahogany Martin

03-20-2006, 09:06 PM

...linseed linseed.. c'mon repeat after me, linseed, not lindseed. I thought of scanning the page but I don't quite know how to *attach it* to the site for you to see :confused: :D

Dan Erlewine says "my motto for cleaning any fretboard is less is best". And then a little later under "Lubricating dry fretboard" he says "My prefered fretboard treatment is pure raw linseed oil (not the boiled variety)."

I've used lem-oil so far and each time I wonder if it takes care of the dryness enough. It seems to *evaporate* withing the first week or so (kinda thing). The way he explains it is to apply it meticulously, let it sit a minute or so and wipe it clean. I thought that it may have made a difference not so much in providing extra *gliding* but in preserving the fretboard.

FGW (Canada)

03-21-2006, 06:14 AM

From my experience, one should clean and oil the fretboard every string change, an ultra fine (white colour - zero abrasive) scotch pad for application and a CLEAN paper towel or cloth for removal of excess and burnishing. Avoid sticky products that never dry like lemon oil (oxidizes frets), linseed oils, Castrol, Mazola, etc. The best are natural colour Danish oils because they contain resins that actually "dry/harden" and don't turn your instrument into a dust magnet. You can use this on lacquered maple boards as well to preserve and moisturize the finish - just follow the instructions on the can! I cringe at fretboards that havn't been maintained since day one; grunge and grime is NOT cool!

dwagar

03-21-2006, 09:20 AM

I've been using lemon oil for about 40 years.
I think I'm still using the same bottle.
When I think the board is too dry, or dirty and need cleaning, I'll touch it up with a drop of oil on a paper towel. Then with a clean cotton cloth I will rub the shit out of it to ensure there is no oil left on top of the board - it'll kill your strings.
Keep in mind all lemon oils are not equal. Bonus is we want the absolutely cheapest stuff with no additives, no petroleum, no silicones, etc.
Also, I've always lived in Alberta. We think humidity means rain. If you are in a humid climate, your fretboards may not dry out as much.

Baba Rumraisin

03-21-2006, 09:51 AM

At one time, early twentieth century, instead of lemon oil, it was called,( I think I remember,) pine oil as it smelled like pine, like Lestoil. In the thirties, forties or fifties the lemon smell came to be in vogue and it was switched to lemon scent. It was largely made of kerosene.
I'm not saying that that is the case now, I'm just adding some absolutely useless information from the great wealth of useless information clogging up my head.
I feel that the neck gets plenty of oiling from the constant contact of our hands and most of what we try to remove is actually accumulated oil and dirt.
Having the wood of my guitar neck dry is a good thing IMHO. Soap and water is a really good cleanser if you're really concerned about dirt. As far as the pores in the wood of the fretboard are concerned, again, the oil and dead skin from our hands will keep them filled.
This is especially true in the case of necks that are finished. The idea of a finish is to seal the wood from outside influences. The finish on the neck and fretboard of my Rickie is some sort of spaceage super-hard clearcoat and putting any extra oil on it would be a waste of time and effort. It's oil I want to remove.
FGW(Canada) will speak to me no doubt when I mention again that I've found Armour All to be nice on my necks. It removes the dirt and makes them slippery and slick, but then, if they're to be refinished at some time, it'll be me that does it. So it'll be me that has to deal with fisheye.
Did I say I was Bad?

dwagar

03-21-2006, 10:11 AM

yeah, kerosene. That's why you have to get a non-petroleum based product. That'd be like spraying your fretboard with WD40.
While Armor All is probably ok on a poly finish, I sure wouldn't think of getting it near nitro. Basically straight silicone. There's lots of good guitar polishes out there that are as cheap to use as armor all.

Baba Rumraisin

03-21-2006, 04:48 PM

If you want to stay away from silicone based cleaners like Lemon Pledge and its like you have to be careful what it is you're buying and using. Truthfully, I do use Armor All or something like it but I, for one, don't worry about refinishing problems. But, yeah, a damp cloth or a guitar cleaner concoction may be the way you want to go.
This has been a fun thread so far. There are, no doubt, just about as many ways to clean one's guitar as there are owners. If, when you do it your way, it has a percieved improvement in feel, look or sound, then you're doing something right. About the only thing you'd not want to do is remove the dirt or grime with a belt sander. That would be bad. But , as the saying goes, if it feels right, it is right. At least I think the saying went that way.

guitarzan

03-23-2006, 09:13 PM

thanks, now i have more to think about.;) :D
actually i have used lemon oil, and after running to the other room to read the lable, i see it is a mineral oil based product.

Lowtones

03-23-2006, 09:26 PM

check this out. It comes highly recommended.

http://www.beafifer.com/boredoctor.htm

guitarzan

03-23-2006, 09:46 PM

interesting. thanks for the link.

Teleplucker

03-25-2006, 12:00 PM

I use "Guitar Honey" from Gerlitz in Oregon. It's specially formulated for guitar fretboards. Since it's so dry here in Alberta, I put some on about 2X a year. I bugged Mike so much, he finally started to stock it:

http://www.acousticguitar.net

david henman

03-28-2006, 10:45 AM

One vote for simple tung oil. Outlasts anything else I've tried. :food-smiley-004:

...i have been using lemon pledge on my fretboards and other surfaces for about forty years.

bad idea?

ajcoholic

03-29-2006, 11:44 AM

ONly if you want to ever have a refin done...

Baba Rumraisin

03-30-2006, 09:51 PM

Lemon Pledge has been known as the bane of furniture refinishers for a long time. Silicone is what gives you that nice shine on your tabletop.

rippinglickfest

04-02-2006, 08:59 PM

What I use for my fingerboards is Gunstock Oil............it is Linseed Oil based but it is refined so that the non drying qualities are removed. Its easy to apply and dries quickly. The product I use is called 'GB's Lin-speed and its 8.95 american for a 2 0z bottle........and one bottle goes a long way.
you can order it at "GB" Products Division
Lin-speed Inc
PO Box 1319
Mashpee, Ma
02649
E-mail---RRowe74257@aol.com

Ray

GuitarsCanada

04-23-2006, 11:06 PM

This gunstock oil sounds interesting. I might give that try and see what happens. Good stuff and lots of great input.

erikm5150

04-24-2006, 12:30 PM

Bore Oil is what i use.
it's used primarily for woodwind instruments... works very well for rosewood fingerboards.

Xanadu

04-24-2006, 03:09 PM

paragonGuitars

04-24-2006, 04:06 PM

GuitarsCanada

04-26-2006, 08:19 PM

I've already read this whole thread looking for the answer.

---

I've never oiled my fretboards before...but, with winter, I think they need it. What is best for ebony(?) If they are even ebony.. they're dark.

there's this one,
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d35/Xanadu-06/rg470.jpg

and this one,
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d35/Xanadu-06/PICT066701.jpg

That Ibanez you have there is rosewood for sure, the other one is very dark but I can't tell. Ebony is almost black in color so easy to spot. In terms of what to use... there have been several good suggestions made here and I dont think it matters which type of wood. I am not the expert on woods though.

ianderson

05-04-2006, 10:55 PM

Linseed oil work fine, many pros have used it sucsessully for decades. My personall fav is Tung oil - works great! Remender to use 0000 steel wool to cleanup first, apply oil, and clean and polish when oil has soak in. You only need to do this once or twice a year tops!

jxoco

06-09-2006, 04:45 PM

I use Gibson Luthiers Choice fretboard conditioner.
From L & McQ
About $2

Works well for me...

snakeman

06-09-2006, 10:37 PM

I think it's fine to leave most fretboards oil free. I've used boiled linseed oil and lemon oil a lot, but now I'm either leaving them alone or using the synthetic oil from Luthier's Mercantile. LMII.com Before applying the oil (or not) I clean the board with mineral spirits to remove masking tape residue after a fretjob. I found boiled linseed oil would kill strings and grime up frets, and although better, lemon oil did the same if you weren't super carefull in cleaning all the excess off the frets.

Rob
Absolutely! In a past life I did some duck hunting and decided to clean my favourite duck call and spiff it up with some linseed oil. Bad idea. Ruined the tone and weakened the volume considerably. That was years ago and its still not (dry?) right. When I do refrets, the board gets a light sanding and then a polishing with 0000 steel wool. No oils, silicones, nada! And clean the grease from your fingers off the neck when you put your guitar away. It's supposed to be dry.

Tarbender

06-10-2006, 01:56 AM

I've used lemon oil for about 30 years and have never had a problem but after reading about Docter Fret and seeing what it has done to my fretboard iwouldn't use anything else: http://www.beafifer.com/boredoctor.htm

David St Hubbins

07-30-2006, 11:05 AM

Fret Dr ? I should pick some of this stuff up and give it a try. Been using the lemon oil as well.

dwagar

07-30-2006, 12:50 PM

I broke down and ordered fret doctor. Great stuff, the lemon oil is now in the garbage can.

(there's a link on pg 2 of this thread I think, boredoctor is the same site)

KHINGPYNN

07-31-2006, 03:11 PM

I use the Dunlop Leon oil product and also have Dr. Stringfellow... both are good IMHO.

KHINGPYNN

nine

10-04-2006, 04:05 PM

I've always used Liquid Gold. Once every couple of string changes.

davetcan

10-04-2006, 05:31 PM

I broke down and ordered fret doctor. Great stuff, the lemon oil is now in the garbage can.

(there's a link on pg 2 of this thread I think, boredoctor is the same site)

Me too. Great stuff.

GuitarsCanada

10-04-2006, 05:40 PM

Is this goo good for all types of woods?

Coustfan'01

10-04-2006, 05:59 PM

I use to use linseed oil and terpentine to clean and oil the fretboard , but i now use the dunlop stuff . They both seem to work pretty well .

bickertfan

10-05-2006, 08:16 AM

I broke down and ordered fret doctor. Great stuff, the lemon oil is now in the garbage can.

(there's a link on pg 2 of this thread I think, boredoctor is the same site)

Alright I'm in - placed order for fret doctor

GuitarsCanada

10-21-2006, 06:10 PM

I was just watching that program, How It's Made. They were showing how guitars are made at Godin. They were usuing mineral oil on the fretboards. That's a new one on me.

Sneaky

10-24-2006, 03:25 PM

I was just watching that program, How It's Made. They were showing how guitars are made at Godin. They were usuing mineral oil on the fretboards. That's a new one on me.

I think most name brand lemon oils are just mineral oil with essence of lemon added. Personally, I never use anything on my fretboards except possibly a damp cloth to clean off the grunge. I figure my greazy fingers have enough oil on them already (especially after eating pizza and wings :tongue: ).

I think most vintage acoustic guitar experts will tell you oiling a rosewood board is a definite no-no.

Pete

bolero

11-25-2006, 09:50 PM

I just use a rag with olive or vegetable oil to wipe the strings down every once in a while...keeps them slick, corrossion free & easy to play. plus it keeps the fretboard from drying out, and they're both non-toxic ( ie you can dig into that bag of potato chips without worrying about ingesting linseed/mineral oil etc )

Milkman

11-26-2006, 07:09 AM

I have been told by a couple of luthiers whom I respect that they prefer Clarinet Bore Oil as it provides moisture but doesn't leave any residue.

I used to use lemon oil but these days I just clean them and don't bother with oil at all.

GuitarsCanada

11-19-2007, 08:43 PM

I need to get to work on a few of my guitars. They need a little oil.

The Kicker Of Elves

11-19-2007, 09:19 PM

"Circa 1850" Pure Lemon Oil.

Works great, it really makes a difference...rosewood on one of my guitars was getting pretty dry and pale.

Michelle

11-20-2007, 08:11 AM

I can't remember the name of it, made by Ernie Ball or whoever. Fret ease? Comes in a little gold plastic bottle that has a dauber in it, it contains mineral oil. Someone told me to only use mineral oil and I believed him. Sure does a nice job but my hands are black after a couple hrs, maybe it's the cheap Hartke strings, they sound good though.

:wave:

djem

11-20-2007, 02:18 PM

Thought I'd post some links from other forums on this timeless debate. Read on and learn.

What I have learned is that:
1) There are different types of 'Lemon Oil'. There are the natural types (good) whereas others are petroluem based (not so good) with additives like silicone which may not be good.
2) There's a lot of discussion on Linseed at the Les Paul Forum, where Dan Erlewine is a contributor in the tech section, and even Dan says to use it very sparingly.
3) I personally would not use linseed oil for two reasons. A) it never really dries (creates a layer that creates even more grunge by collecting skin and skin oils) and B) it's dangerous if you don't use precautions. IE: rags soaked with linseed left crumpled up will spontaneously combust. True fact.
4) Lots of folks seem to swear by Fret Doctor (bore oil).
5) I've always cleaned my boards using a damp cloth and scraping the grunge off with a flat piece of plastic like a credit card. I would apply a very thin coat of natural lemon oil and then wipe it off. Never soaked it. Never had a problem either.

Here are some links:

http://www.thegearpage.net/board/showthread.php?t=223154&highlight=fretboard&page=2

http://www.lespaulforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=136812

http://www.lespaulforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=136546

The Kicker Of Elves

11-20-2007, 02:34 PM

The lemon oil I'm using doesn't have any silicone, etc.

I did some reading and picked up the Circa 1850 at Home Depot.

The can will last nearly forever as each application uses very little.

djem

11-20-2007, 03:32 PM

Here's another link for your reading pleasure:

http://www.muzique.com/schem/fret.htm

Geek

11-20-2007, 03:57 PM

Watco danish oil.

Man, isn't that stuff awesome? :smile:

I won't use anything else since I've tried that (on any wood project).

Cheers!

Ship of fools

11-20-2007, 04:47 PM

I have several guitars over 40 years + and have never used anything on the fret board , the closest they come to get a cleaning is some very fine wire,and thats only used if there is a build up on that is noticeable, other than that I am very old school, for me nothing extra is needed as long as you are playing them and wiping them down with a nice soft old cotton t-shirt.But hey thats just me, and what works for you, works, right, all that really matters is that you are playing your ax and hopefully sharing your music with someone or a whole bunch, so rock on baby:rockon2:.Ship

Canman

11-20-2007, 06:55 PM

Nose Grease (oil from your face)

-but if you have a tendacy to wash your face alot it takes longer with the strings off. Its an old trick.:smile:

zontar

11-20-2007, 10:20 PM

I've used Tres Hombres Lemon Oil for almost 30 years--no problems.
My Iceman & Mustang (both rosewood fingerboards) haven't suffered from it.
And a little does go a long way. For that time frame I'm on my second bottle, but only because the first one leaked one time I moved. They haven't made this stuff for years, and a friend has tried a lot of other brands--but nothing comes close.

laristotle

11-21-2007, 12:05 AM

Anyone still have a stick of fast fret (http://www.musiciansfriend.com/product/GHS-FastFret-String-Cleaner?sku=420451&src=3SOSWXXA)?
Man that stuff goes a long way.
Great for basses too.

Kenmac

11-21-2007, 05:02 PM

Yep, I always use Fast Fret. Not only does it clean the strings but it really does condition the fretboard.

Anyone still have a stick of fast fret (http://www.musiciansfriend.com/product/GHS-FastFret-String-Cleaner?sku=420451&src=3SOSWXXA)?
Man that stuff goes a long way.
Great for basses too.

Michelle

11-21-2007, 06:09 PM

Anyone still have a stick of fast fret (http://www.musiciansfriend.com/product/GHS-FastFret-String-Cleaner?sku=420451&src=3SOSWXXA)?
Man that stuff goes a long way.
Great for basses too.

That's what I was talking about in #46, made by GHS, (but I got it all wrong). Very handy storage/application. Doesn't leak, doesn't stink, and fast frets!

fullscale

01-24-2008, 02:29 PM

Oddly enough I was checking out Freddy's Frets website today and he recommends a product called Gorgomyte from Kentucky I think. I've never tried it. What I use on my rosewood fingerboards is the 0000 steel wool and Tung Oil. I learned that trick from the 12th Fret website! I've had no problems with my boards using Tung Oil. Ernie Ball Musicman maple necks come unfinished and rubbed with gunstock oil, which is what they tell you to use from then on.

Rydock

01-26-2008, 08:45 AM

I ordered a bottle of Fret Doctor last week and used it on my guitars. The stuff is as amazing as they describe it on the site. Gave my ebony a nice glassy look to it, and naturally darkened rosewood without discolouring it.

soundhound6

07-03-2008, 10:23 AM

Hi, The tung/danish oils are the way to go,IMO.
I cut pure tung oil with 50% pure artist's grade turpentine in a small container.About 1 fl. oz. should be plenty.This thin finish will absorb into the
wood and not create a surface finish like varnish.It still feels like wood and not "plasticy".
The finish is water and alkali resistant.It is an elastic finish, that also resists
marring and checking because of the integration with the wood.It dries to a matt finish. (Can be used with food items, if used pure, without thinning.)
The Chinese have been using it for centuries for stone and wood in buildings,
as well as boatbuilding as a preservative/water repellant.:bow:
I'll put on a couple of coats rubbed out with 4/0 steelwool a few times a year,
during a full string change.
I am building a new hardwood cab for my YCV-20 and will use my 50/50 mix on that puppy to be sure!!lofu Have a great day....Jan

YJMUJRSRV

07-03-2008, 09:50 PM

This is an awfully long and stupid thread considering this is the luthier corner.

I’ll add this since I’m sure to be hated for saying the above but its true.

All those ridiculous concoctions you can buy are made of one or more of the things people are mentioning – linseed, lemon, Danish

Anyone who is a luthier knows what to use.

Those who are not are going to argue till the cows come home. I’ve heard this debate so many times and fixed so many necks where somebody drenched their board in lemon oil then wonder why the frets are popping out.

It doesn’t matter what kind of oil – oil is oil. Obviously the natural sources are the best. The key and the only absolute right is a little dab will do ya.

smorgdonkey

07-04-2008, 09:05 AM

Anyone still have a stick of fast fret (http://www.musiciansfriend.com/product/GHS-FastFret-String-Cleaner?sku=420451&src=3SOSWXXA)?

I used to use that but now I use Dr.Duck's AXWAX...no real wax in it and no silicone. Great for cleaning fingerboards and much better than the FastFret when doing an entire fingerboard when you have strings off (particularly a new acquisition which is grimey!!).